100 nm without a torque wrench

[darrsi]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=17798.msg205475#msg205475 date=1438207940]
[quote author=lew600fazer link=topic=17798.msg205472#msg205472 date=1438206516]
Good rule of thumb finger tight then one flat on the nut and for extra security apply a touch of Loctite Blue before assembly.

You are obviously joking for 100Nm?
Unless you have fingers like "The Thing" from The Fantastic Four?
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seriously now, they're 8 or 10mm thread, just lean on them. common sense will tell you if they're tight. (from someone else on here)

The rear axle nut is 150nm , I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 150nm so all I have done with that is mark the flat of the nut and the area next to the nut, Back it off do what I need to do and tighten it back to were it was. All I am using is a split ring spanner no bars or anything else and I am not popping a vein to slacken/tighten the nut. Now perhaps it has not been torqued up to the correct torque in the first place , but guess what the wheel has never come off or come lose on me yet. All I am doing from finger tight is turning the nut through 1.5 flats
After spending my working life as an engineer I reckon I would have a pretty good idea when a nut is tight.

So how many flats do you reckon from finger tight on a 8-10mm bolt/nut do you reckon you would need to turn it to achieve 100 nm?
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If i get a sporting chance i'll give it a try at work and let you know.
Common sense always prevails, but it's probably the lower settings where people really get it wrong, like exhaust header nuts(12Nm), caliper pad pins(10Nm), etc.
Even worse if using copper grease, where even i have become a victim of foccing up my own rear caliper, using a torque wrench.