25-05-15, 01:52 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-05-15, 01:54 PM by NorthWestern.)
I did mine cheaply with a 2CO R6 top yoke (£25) and a YZF 750 bottom yoke (free). At the time they were about £40. You can get R1 yokes for 40-50 each which just require strengthening for the top riser bolt holes. If you want it quick then you can pay the buy it now prices but the same yokes stay on for ages so if you make a decent offer you can get them for less than advertised.
FWIW the mod list I did was very short. 2 plates welded under top yoke for bolt holes. A single hat spacer for the top yoke and cut and rethreaded the std stem. All very simple mods. The YZF bottom yoke requires no modification (even the horn bolts/brake lines bolt on perfectly), lock stops etc all good and the stem seats in like it was designed for the bike where from what I Saw the R1 bottom yoke needs a roll pin and the stem not fully pressing in...
I don't recall exactly the mods I did to the stem but :
![[Image: 18075565482_c03f780b7c_z.jpg]](https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5445/18075565482_c03f780b7c_z.jpg)
The exposed stem is 22mm which I seem to remember was achieved by cutting the stem down 12mm and putting an extra 11mm of thread on. The headstock bearings etc are unmodified.
The spacer: (this goes in the top yoke so the stem fits nicely as the R6 uses a thicker stem).
![[Image: 18079824021_da96648f9d_z.jpg]](https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5454/18079824021_da96648f9d_z.jpg)
The dims for this are: flange diam 37mm, flange depth 1.5mm, hat part diam 28mm, internal diam 23.5mm, total depth of spacer 10mm.
The offsets for the 2C0/YZF750 are 25mm (IIRC).
4XV forks, 10.0 springs.
As mentioned this lowers the front end but because the top yoke is lower than the standard one I only lost about 22mm over stock.
Using 'period' R1/R6 top yokes fit the look of the fazer better than the more modern FZ1 IMO (and are much cheaper).
These measurements should give you all you need to replicate my particular setup. If you use R1 yokes, FZ1, different R1 years then offsets will be different. Different year R1 forks are different lengths etc. My rear ride height is not standard.
You might have to faff around to get your steering lock to operate but nothing beyond the realms of a couple of files and some ingenuity.
If you want standard geom with your custom yokes then just measure what you have currently and work it out accordingly. The forks will be sunk in the top yoke to achieve that, or use fork extenders.
Everyone's bikes will be different as they use different bits and bobs, rear ride height, tires etc If you are wanting adjustable yokes then just go with R1 spec +- whatever you feel necessary. I could have made 'billet' yokes as both my brother and dad make them for race bikes but what's the point really when you can do a quick 5 min mod on some £25 yokes.
FWIW the mod list I did was very short. 2 plates welded under top yoke for bolt holes. A single hat spacer for the top yoke and cut and rethreaded the std stem. All very simple mods. The YZF bottom yoke requires no modification (even the horn bolts/brake lines bolt on perfectly), lock stops etc all good and the stem seats in like it was designed for the bike where from what I Saw the R1 bottom yoke needs a roll pin and the stem not fully pressing in...
I don't recall exactly the mods I did to the stem but :
The exposed stem is 22mm which I seem to remember was achieved by cutting the stem down 12mm and putting an extra 11mm of thread on. The headstock bearings etc are unmodified.
The spacer: (this goes in the top yoke so the stem fits nicely as the R6 uses a thicker stem).
The dims for this are: flange diam 37mm, flange depth 1.5mm, hat part diam 28mm, internal diam 23.5mm, total depth of spacer 10mm.
The offsets for the 2C0/YZF750 are 25mm (IIRC).
4XV forks, 10.0 springs.
As mentioned this lowers the front end but because the top yoke is lower than the standard one I only lost about 22mm over stock.
Using 'period' R1/R6 top yokes fit the look of the fazer better than the more modern FZ1 IMO (and are much cheaper).
These measurements should give you all you need to replicate my particular setup. If you use R1 yokes, FZ1, different R1 years then offsets will be different. Different year R1 forks are different lengths etc. My rear ride height is not standard.
You might have to faff around to get your steering lock to operate but nothing beyond the realms of a couple of files and some ingenuity.
If you want standard geom with your custom yokes then just measure what you have currently and work it out accordingly. The forks will be sunk in the top yoke to achieve that, or use fork extenders.
Everyone's bikes will be different as they use different bits and bobs, rear ride height, tires etc If you are wanting adjustable yokes then just go with R1 spec +- whatever you feel necessary. I could have made 'billet' yokes as both my brother and dad make them for race bikes but what's the point really when you can do a quick 5 min mod on some £25 yokes.
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