20-12-14, 10:36 AM
Usually you only have to remove the wiring and bolt the original fuel gauge back on. Also undo the modifications around the fuel warning light (insert bulb, glue plastic stud again).
Only question is about the speedo healer. Is there a orange wire and resistor? Check this picture for reference.
http://cvieth.bplaced.net/bilder/ganganz..._final.JPG
If so you have to close the cut done on the cluster board. Otherwise your speedo won't work. In the above example the cut is located left of R51.
I doubt that the gauge is the root cause for your problems, it only suffers from the same hidden failure in your electric. But never say never. It's good practice to remove suspicious parts to rule them out.
Based on my experience trouble with the ignition is mostly caused by only a few weak points in the loom:
- The iginition barrel contacts tend get poor over time and fail randomly. They are a bit (too) heavy loaded by design. Quick help is to flood it with WD40. Long term clean and/or replace the switch.
Also dismantle and check the connector underneath the tank and the wires towards. Sometimes all looks fine but cables might be fried, hidden inside the protection hose.
- Electrical connectors: The 2 connectors (3 white wires) running from the alternator to the R/R.
For testing there is a way to bypass the loom and supply the ECU/ignition directly. Simply pull "some" fuses and make a short between one of the fuse contact and the battery. I could draw you a small sketch if needed.
Only question is about the speedo healer. Is there a orange wire and resistor? Check this picture for reference.
http://cvieth.bplaced.net/bilder/ganganz..._final.JPG
If so you have to close the cut done on the cluster board. Otherwise your speedo won't work. In the above example the cut is located left of R51.
I doubt that the gauge is the root cause for your problems, it only suffers from the same hidden failure in your electric. But never say never. It's good practice to remove suspicious parts to rule them out.
Based on my experience trouble with the ignition is mostly caused by only a few weak points in the loom:
- The iginition barrel contacts tend get poor over time and fail randomly. They are a bit (too) heavy loaded by design. Quick help is to flood it with WD40. Long term clean and/or replace the switch.
Also dismantle and check the connector underneath the tank and the wires towards. Sometimes all looks fine but cables might be fried, hidden inside the protection hose.
- Electrical connectors: The 2 connectors (3 white wires) running from the alternator to the R/R.
For testing there is a way to bypass the loom and supply the ECU/ignition directly. Simply pull "some" fuses and make a short between one of the fuse contact and the battery. I could draw you a small sketch if needed.