16-11-14, 12:10 PM
(16-11-14, 02:04 AM)Grahamm link Wrote: Yes, I've just seen Fazerider's post, it's been a very long time since I learned about RMS voltages... The question is: Are those values that that other post mentions (90v!) correct? If I disconnected the plug from the stator to the rectifier and measured that, without load, rather than the input to the RR, would I get them then?Right, the white wires alone should give a very high reading. 90V AC might be possible. On my FZS1000 it was about 40V (if I remember correctly ..). The absolute value is not important as long as all 3 readings are similar and in the range 30V or up.
Even if all measurements are fine this is no absolute proof that the RR behaves the same while riding.
To narrow down the bug you could still do some more experiments:
- Charge the battery fully up. Unplug the RR completely. If possible switch off all lights (by pulling the respective fuses if no switch is present). This should give you enough power for maybe 30 minutes. Go for some test rides.
- And/or connect your multimeter directly to the battery terminals. Tape it to the tank, or wherever, to be able to observe it while riding.
This should give you a indication whether a voltage drop occurs at the battery.
Any sudden voltage drop at the battery will be caused by a short circuit somewhere in the system. Sometimes it's only a damaged cable insulation, making contact due to engine vibration.
Avoid focusing only to the positive lead. Ground is as important.
In case you decide to swap your RR you can go for almost any other type. They all (not only Yamaha's) work the same way. The only difference is power rating. All modern bikes use Mosfet type RRs. FH012AA is a very popular and reliable replacement.
Only trouble is to find one with matching connector. Maybe unclipping and re-using the old connector housing does the job.