16-11-14, 02:04 AM
(15-11-14, 07:14 PM)schlumpf link Wrote: (Please take care to have your multimeter set to the right position: AC for the white leads, DC for the battery voltages.)
Oh I am. I already blew the 250mA fuse when I forgot to change the setting from Amps to Volts and touched the probes to the battery terminals!(Oops)
But it was definitely on the 200v AC setting when I was reading the white wires.
Quote:Under load the voltage on the white wires can be below 12V.
Yes, I've just seen Fazerider's post, it's been a very long time since I learned about RMS voltages... The question is: Are those values that that other post mentions (90v!) correct? If I disconnected the plug from the stator to the rectifier and measured that, without load, rather than the input to the RR, would I get them then?
(15-11-14, 08:32 PM)unfazed link Wrote: I just replaced the regulator on my sons 2003 Foxeye 600 and everything had tested ok, but it was failing under load and the only real indication was a faltering at around 7 to 8000 revs when riding aggressively.
Hmm, that's interesting. A few times I've thought I've felt a slight "twitch" when I was riding, but I'd put it down to either my imagination or maybe a bump in the road.
But does that mean that, when the bike is running, it's actually getting power from the RR rather than the battery?
Quote:I would be inclined to change the regulator/rectifier first as there are plenty of spares and it is a Shindengen SH719AA
It's also £60 which I don't want to spend if I don't have to if it isn't that which is causing the problem
(16-11-14, 12:22 AM)chris.biker link Wrote: How long has the present battery been in the bike, and what make is.
The battery is only about a month old this is the one I bought to replace the old one when I first started having these problems.
Initially it seemed to have sorted the problem, but now it's come back which suggests that the battery may not have been at fault (or, at least, not entirely).