26-09-14, 10:16 PM
The problem is in the lighting circuit. The red/yellow is the main feed from the Headlight fuse to the lights on/off switch on the right hand bar. The blue/black is the is for the heads and dims and blue is for the parking lights
The white connector is for the wheel sensor and goes to the clocks and mostly likely was burned by the computer molex connector.
The computer molex connector and its connectors you used to repair it is not capable of taking a 12v 10amps circuit as they are for low power computer circuits.
As a start point remove the bulbs and check the wattage, this circuit is fused by the Headlight fuse. If the wattage is more than 55 or 60 then the high wattage bulbs caused the problem.
However if the bulbs are the correct wattage and since the light on/off switch and the dimmer switch appear to be ok, the fault most likely lies in the connectors you used. The initial fault was most likely caused by a loose connection arcing. The Red Yellow wire will need to be cut back until you get to clean copper and a new piece added in to bring it back to the proper length. It is a stranded cable and the corrosion will effect the electrical flow and could cause a reoccurance or the problem
You will need to purchase some good quality automotive connectors, something like those shown below. They can be bought in packs of ten with their appropriate insulators. Do not use the crap preinsulated type. With the proper connectors crimped and insulated the problem should be resolved.
The reason the fellow with the the Fazer 1000 the ECU said it might be the ECU is that the ECU (Ignitor) on the 03 to 05 Fazer 1000s switches on the lights when the bike start , but the ignitor has nothing to do with the lights on the 98/99 Fazer 600.
[img alt=Blade - Female]http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/030201___030206_orig_listing.jpg[/img][img alt=Insulation Sleeves for Female Blades]http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/030501___030506_orig_listing.jpg[/img]
The white connector is for the wheel sensor and goes to the clocks and mostly likely was burned by the computer molex connector.
The computer molex connector and its connectors you used to repair it is not capable of taking a 12v 10amps circuit as they are for low power computer circuits.
As a start point remove the bulbs and check the wattage, this circuit is fused by the Headlight fuse. If the wattage is more than 55 or 60 then the high wattage bulbs caused the problem.
However if the bulbs are the correct wattage and since the light on/off switch and the dimmer switch appear to be ok, the fault most likely lies in the connectors you used. The initial fault was most likely caused by a loose connection arcing. The Red Yellow wire will need to be cut back until you get to clean copper and a new piece added in to bring it back to the proper length. It is a stranded cable and the corrosion will effect the electrical flow and could cause a reoccurance or the problem
You will need to purchase some good quality automotive connectors, something like those shown below. They can be bought in packs of ten with their appropriate insulators. Do not use the crap preinsulated type. With the proper connectors crimped and insulated the problem should be resolved.
The reason the fellow with the the Fazer 1000 the ECU said it might be the ECU is that the ECU (Ignitor) on the 03 to 05 Fazer 1000s switches on the lights when the bike start , but the ignitor has nothing to do with the lights on the 98/99 Fazer 600.
[img alt=Blade - Female]http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/030201___030206_orig_listing.jpg[/img][img alt=Insulation Sleeves for Female Blades]http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/030501___030506_orig_listing.jpg[/img]