06-09-14, 01:46 AM
I've always fitted my own tyres so don't know any different. Advantages: cheaper tyres, more convenient, better job, can do your own permanent puncture repairs.
You're right that breaking the bead on a tubeless is the hardest part. I use a 6" engineers vice but a proper breaker would be good to have.
You'll need at least three levers, two pairs of rim protectors, tyre soap, some method of balancing (I use the Ricambi Weiss) and some stick on weights. I also use a couple of lengths of 4"x2" to rest the wheel on while keeping the brake disc off the ground.
A compressor is nice to have but I've managed it with a foot pump numerous times.
Take out the valve core before you start and kneel on the bead to keep it in the well while working on the opposite side. Make sure that the rim protectors are in position before doing any levering. Take your time and if you break into a sweat you're doing it wrong.
Don't forget to check the new tyre for direction of rotation and put the paint spot next to the valve.
If I've missed anything, give me a shout...
You're right that breaking the bead on a tubeless is the hardest part. I use a 6" engineers vice but a proper breaker would be good to have.
You'll need at least three levers, two pairs of rim protectors, tyre soap, some method of balancing (I use the Ricambi Weiss) and some stick on weights. I also use a couple of lengths of 4"x2" to rest the wheel on while keeping the brake disc off the ground.
A compressor is nice to have but I've managed it with a foot pump numerous times.
Take out the valve core before you start and kneel on the bead to keep it in the well while working on the opposite side. Make sure that the rim protectors are in position before doing any levering. Take your time and if you break into a sweat you're doing it wrong.
Don't forget to check the new tyre for direction of rotation and put the paint spot next to the valve.
If I've missed anything, give me a shout...
FZS600, Speed Triple 1050, FZS1000, DT175MX etc.