29-07-14, 04:16 PM
And you called me stupid? Of course your tin is marked anti-seize if there is anti-seize in your tin, but what exactly is it that you think anti-seize is? In your own words, it is grease with bits in it. Anti-seize can be used anywhere that grease can be used, except where the bits would do more harm then good such as bearings. And anywhere you are putting anti-seize, you are putting GREASE! It is really not that difficult, just try to remember that the bits don't stop the grease from being grease. The bits help prevent seizing from corrosion by offering sacrificial metal to corrode first, but the grease helps just as much if not more by excluding the water and oxygen and by providing lubrication.
You really don't think, do you. You said yourself that grease, or any other lubricant, and anti-seize is grease, fuck up torque settings. So why do you now think that using fucked up torque settings wont do any harm? Is it for the same reason that you don't think it is worth reading the manual to see whether grease, anti-seize, loctite or nothing at all should be used? Is it the same reason you think it is OK to tell others that greasing the bolts and doing them by hand is somehow better then using a torque wrench? In other words, it seems that you don't think, you just do it the way you did it the last time.
When I paraphrased your unsubstantiated claims against cheap torque wrenches, you said I am the one being silly? You have access to the expensive analyser, so use it. Tell us how far out cheap wrenchs are. Personally, I have never had one that read more than 10% off, (that is 36 to 44Nm when looking for 40Nm) but since they are quick and easy to calibrate, it is easy to find out whether they are under or over reading and by how much, and you do not need a special tool to do it.
You never did answer my questions on tolerance or on how you thought your analyser worked, let alone why you think it should be so expensive, so let me give you a little clue. You can even use this to impress your mates and perhaps save your boss some money, if you are not to old to learn, that is. Some people find the concept of a Newton-Meter a little awkward to get their head around at first, google will tell you :
But that does not exactly trip off the tongue. Basically, a Newton is the force required to accelerate a one kilo mass by one meter per second. Gravity on Earth is applying an acceleration of about 9.8 meters per second per second, so a one kilo mass is applying 9.8 Newtons of force to whatever is stopping it from falling. If it is being held up at the end of a horizontal lever, one meter long, then the amount of torque being applied to the other end of that lever is 9.8 Newton meters. See, it is not really that complicated at all.
I know you don't want to talk about servicing brakes anymore, and I can understand why, but you might ask the Male Whale if he usually replaces the pads with the calipers in place, and if he does, does he reset the pistons by levering a screw driver between them and the unsupported disk? I could be wrong, but I suspect he does neither. However, if you think that is an OK thing to do and that it wont damage the disks, then fine, then you need never undo those bolts again so it wont matter how you secure them. However, I am sure you wont be offended if I ask you to stay the fuck away from my bike.
(28-07-14, 09:09 PM)VNA link Wrote:Quote:grease fucks up torque settingsYou generally get wet or dry torque figures. Wet (greased) are considered the more accurate or repeatable.
If you use copper ease and the dry torque setting I really don't think you'll do any harm.
You really don't think, do you. You said yourself that grease, or any other lubricant, and anti-seize is grease, fuck up torque settings. So why do you now think that using fucked up torque settings wont do any harm? Is it for the same reason that you don't think it is worth reading the manual to see whether grease, anti-seize, loctite or nothing at all should be used? Is it the same reason you think it is OK to tell others that greasing the bolts and doing them by hand is somehow better then using a torque wrench? In other words, it seems that you don't think, you just do it the way you did it the last time.
When I paraphrased your unsubstantiated claims against cheap torque wrenches, you said I am the one being silly? You have access to the expensive analyser, so use it. Tell us how far out cheap wrenchs are. Personally, I have never had one that read more than 10% off, (that is 36 to 44Nm when looking for 40Nm) but since they are quick and easy to calibrate, it is easy to find out whether they are under or over reading and by how much, and you do not need a special tool to do it.
You never did answer my questions on tolerance or on how you thought your analyser worked, let alone why you think it should be so expensive, so let me give you a little clue. You can even use this to impress your mates and perhaps save your boss some money, if you are not to old to learn, that is. Some people find the concept of a Newton-Meter a little awkward to get their head around at first, google will tell you :
Quote:[font=Verdana]
The newton metre is a unit of torque (also called "moment") in the SI system. The symbolic form is N m or N. m. One newton metre, sometimes hyphenated newton-metre, is equal to the torque resulting from a force of one newton applied perpendicularly to a moment arm which is one metre long.
But that does not exactly trip off the tongue. Basically, a Newton is the force required to accelerate a one kilo mass by one meter per second. Gravity on Earth is applying an acceleration of about 9.8 meters per second per second, so a one kilo mass is applying 9.8 Newtons of force to whatever is stopping it from falling. If it is being held up at the end of a horizontal lever, one meter long, then the amount of torque being applied to the other end of that lever is 9.8 Newton meters. See, it is not really that complicated at all.
I know you don't want to talk about servicing brakes anymore, and I can understand why, but you might ask the Male Whale if he usually replaces the pads with the calipers in place, and if he does, does he reset the pistons by levering a screw driver between them and the unsupported disk? I could be wrong, but I suspect he does neither. However, if you think that is an OK thing to do and that it wont damage the disks, then fine, then you need never undo those bolts again so it wont matter how you secure them. However, I am sure you wont be offended if I ask you to stay the fuck away from my bike.