28-07-14, 03:40 PM
Wrong, wrong and wrong again. OK. Let's see.
You have twice 'corrected' me by saying that copper grease is an anti-sieze and not a grease. Will you please stop pretending that copper grease is anything other then grease with copper in it. Your own words, just above the mystical section 4:
Speaking of section 4, perhaps you could read it again to double check that what you wrote is what you intended to say, because I don't think it says what you seem to think it says.
What I think it says is that "grease fucks up torque settings, but if you are lucky, you can look up the internet and find some adjustment factors that might work, but it doesn't really matter because torque wrenchs are fucking useless anyway, so just do them by hand and take a chance that the job is a good un". Seriously? Is that what you meant to say?
While you are re-reading stuff, you might look for the bit where you think I said racers don't lockwire calipers. I didn't. You will actually find that I acknowledge that they do and that it can be a good idea, but that it was not the norm as any time spent in pit lane will tell you. You found one scrutineers guide that said it was recommended. Not mandatory, but recommened.
As for warping discs, perhaps Lew can answer this one better, given his extensive engineering background, but as far as I can tell, the risk to your discs from replacing worn pads without removing calipers comes by having to apply uneven and unsupported lateral forces between the disk, which is not designed to resist unbalanced forces, and the uncleaned and ungreased (red rubber not copper) pistons, which are also not designed to handle unbalanced forces. Even a small amount of dirt or corrsion on the piston will magnify the forces involved and concentrated in a very small area, significantly increasing the likelyhood of focused distortion, and the chances are that the screwdriver used will be hardened so if anything has to give, it wont be the screwdriver. I suspect that you will now tell us that you have been doing it this way for twenty years and never had a disk go out of true, but be that as it may, perhaps you will tell us why (other then anacdotally) you think I am wrong about this.
So you use dedicated and calibrated tools in your workplace. So what? What is the tolerance of the jobs you use those tools on? Now what is the tolerance required for DIY motorcycle maintenance and what is the tolerance of shop bought torque wrences. And finally, what is the tolerance you get by adding a dab of grease and then nipping the job up by hand. And you think I am the twat?
As for having really expensive torque wrench analyser, if you actually know what it was and how it worked you would know that you could put one together in few minutes that will calibrate your £30 torque wrench to within 5% with nothing more then a long spanner, a hex key of the same size that fits the torque wrench you want to analyse, a tape measure, a couple of known weights and a bit of string. Lew can tell you how to put them together, or do you think I am wrong again?
Another check on loctite will tell you that there is no particular risk with using it on aluminium threads, and at twice a year, replaced every two or three years, I would not consider brake bolts candidates for the title "regularly dismantled". I may be a numptie for not having read the manuals properly, but I shared that honour with yourself and Lew. At least my mistake was a fail to safety one unlike yours, and having read the manuals, I have changed what I do and what I recommend others do. Something you seemed to find funny. How about you? Have you read the manuals yet? I can send you a copy if you want.
You have twice 'corrected' me by saying that copper grease is an anti-sieze and not a grease. Will you please stop pretending that copper grease is anything other then grease with copper in it. Your own words, just above the mystical section 4:
Quote:It's copper carried in a grease.Yes it is an anti-sieze compound, but a big part of what makes it anti-sieze is the grease! You do not grease components that are supposed to be locked in place with torque for the very reason you said yourself
Quote: copper ease can render torque settings pointless. The fact that you have been doing it for twenty years without problems does not make it right, it makes you lucky.
Speaking of section 4, perhaps you could read it again to double check that what you wrote is what you intended to say, because I don't think it says what you seem to think it says.
What I think it says is that "grease fucks up torque settings, but if you are lucky, you can look up the internet and find some adjustment factors that might work, but it doesn't really matter because torque wrenchs are fucking useless anyway, so just do them by hand and take a chance that the job is a good un". Seriously? Is that what you meant to say?
While you are re-reading stuff, you might look for the bit where you think I said racers don't lockwire calipers. I didn't. You will actually find that I acknowledge that they do and that it can be a good idea, but that it was not the norm as any time spent in pit lane will tell you. You found one scrutineers guide that said it was recommended. Not mandatory, but recommened.
As for warping discs, perhaps Lew can answer this one better, given his extensive engineering background, but as far as I can tell, the risk to your discs from replacing worn pads without removing calipers comes by having to apply uneven and unsupported lateral forces between the disk, which is not designed to resist unbalanced forces, and the uncleaned and ungreased (red rubber not copper) pistons, which are also not designed to handle unbalanced forces. Even a small amount of dirt or corrsion on the piston will magnify the forces involved and concentrated in a very small area, significantly increasing the likelyhood of focused distortion, and the chances are that the screwdriver used will be hardened so if anything has to give, it wont be the screwdriver. I suspect that you will now tell us that you have been doing it this way for twenty years and never had a disk go out of true, but be that as it may, perhaps you will tell us why (other then anacdotally) you think I am wrong about this.
So you use dedicated and calibrated tools in your workplace. So what? What is the tolerance of the jobs you use those tools on? Now what is the tolerance required for DIY motorcycle maintenance and what is the tolerance of shop bought torque wrences. And finally, what is the tolerance you get by adding a dab of grease and then nipping the job up by hand. And you think I am the twat?
As for having really expensive torque wrench analyser, if you actually know what it was and how it worked you would know that you could put one together in few minutes that will calibrate your £30 torque wrench to within 5% with nothing more then a long spanner, a hex key of the same size that fits the torque wrench you want to analyse, a tape measure, a couple of known weights and a bit of string. Lew can tell you how to put them together, or do you think I am wrong again?
Another check on loctite will tell you that there is no particular risk with using it on aluminium threads, and at twice a year, replaced every two or three years, I would not consider brake bolts candidates for the title "regularly dismantled". I may be a numptie for not having read the manuals properly, but I shared that honour with yourself and Lew. At least my mistake was a fail to safety one unlike yours, and having read the manuals, I have changed what I do and what I recommend others do. Something you seemed to find funny. How about you? Have you read the manuals yet? I can send you a copy if you want.