25-07-14, 07:12 PM
Quote:Of course not, if you do it right. However, you have not really shown any evidence that you are the sort of person likely to do it right. The mere fact that you are suggesting it as a possible solution to you not checking your own bike after someone else works on it re-inforces that opinion. I will be happy to apologise if I have mis-judged you, but I do suggest you take another stroll down pit lane to see which bolts are wired and which are not. In my experience, the bolts that would put others at risk if they failed (oil, coolent etc) are the ones that are wired. The ones that would just kill you are your own problem. I have certainly never seen brake bolts being wired as it would take far to long to change the pads.
The last time I had a dealer service was 2005. I took my thou in to get it serviced purely to keep my warranty valid. The price then was 55 quid and hour plus VAT! I hate to think what it is today. Franchised dealers will tell you that they are the servicing experts, that and considering the rates that they charge means you should not have to check their work. Nor do all riders own torque wrenches, know what the torque setting is, so forth and so on, which is why a lot of people pays others - the experts - to do the work.
The bottom line here is that the dealer failed to tighten the mounting screws correctly. Or, hey who knows maybe Lew rides everywhere like he's in the TT, but I kinda doubt it.
I think what we might both agree on - is that the 'experts' ain't as smart as they'll tell you they are, and that too many dealers are just smart looking polished cowboy outfits (not saying there ain't some spot on dealers and workshops out there) So yeah, it's a good idea to take an interest in your bike, learn simple basic maintenance like brake calliper cleaning, save some cash and know the job is done right.
Perhaps the race series that you participated in Paul did not require any brake lock wiring but many others do. Some wiring is mandatory, some recommendation. Google is your geek - so here's a prep guide to The Manx Grand Prix.
http://www.manxgrandprix.org/MGP-Info/Ma...reparation
Quote:but in your own words, "but then again copper ease can render torque settings pointless".
Read 4 again in my previous post. Think carefully about your use and reliance on torque wrenches. Again google is your geek - there are correction factors for using anti-seize compounds. Note I say anti-seize compound not grease.
Quote:If you read up on loctite you will see it is true that the loosening torque exceeds tighening torque, but not to the point where is a serious concern. Certainly, in my opinion, it is far less of a concern then using guesstimated torque on greased up bolts holding safety equipement in place. There are exceptions of course, but they tend to concern tightening torques that deliberatly strain the bolts and so do not apply in normal motorbike DIY maintenance.
You might wonder why racers have to lock-wire the calliper mounting screws when loctite arguably could do the same job. Lets first accept that race bikes are used differently and subject to serious amounts of abuse when compared to any road bike. We need belt and braces here. So, there are probably two reasons why lock-wire is the preferred belt and braces method and not loctite.
1. The application of loctite cannot be satisfactorily inspected by the race tech inspector.
2. Using loctite on frequently dismantled parts (ie for regular maintenance) is not generally recommended, and less again so on aluminium threads.
I would take a guess that if racers were given the option of using loctite on callipers mounts (oh so quick and easy) and/or lock-wiring if required, they would all pick lock-wire and no loctite every time.
Quote:And no, they do not suggest copper grease!
It's not a grease, it's an anti-seize compound. Steel onto steel the soft copper will allow you to loosen that thread. Steel onto aluminium it will not only allow you to loosen the thread but also protect that soft aluminium thread by acting as a sacrificial metal.
Lew,
Don't go daft and lock-wire your calliper mounting screws, and for God's sake don't touch that loctite (you probably know that anyway) just stick a wee smear o copper ease on the threads and nip em up - job done.