21-05-14, 10:29 PM
Hi
I've found a post I did about 3 years ago on this problem. If it ain't the backup fuse the fix is to do the following to identify which wire is broken:
The 6 way connector block has the r/g in the centre next to the white.
Separate the 6 way plug from it's socket and put one multimeter lead on the
r/g and the other to a bolt on the engine. ( ie the harness leading from the
battery ) It should read 12v. If it does it means the break is in the wiring from the
plug to the instrument cluster. If there's no voltage it means the break is in
the main wiring harness or at the inline fuse feeding the clocks.
Of course check for 12v on the loadside of the clockfuse first.
Look for any sign of abrasion or damage/corrosion to the 6 way plug and
socket. Spray liberally with a contact cleaner.
Btw, if you haven't a multimeter a 12v bulb will work just as well.
As to the s1r, I'm still in awe.
I've found a post I did about 3 years ago on this problem. If it ain't the backup fuse the fix is to do the following to identify which wire is broken:
The 6 way connector block has the r/g in the centre next to the white.
Separate the 6 way plug from it's socket and put one multimeter lead on the
r/g and the other to a bolt on the engine. ( ie the harness leading from the
battery ) It should read 12v. If it does it means the break is in the wiring from the
plug to the instrument cluster. If there's no voltage it means the break is in
the main wiring harness or at the inline fuse feeding the clocks.
Of course check for 12v on the loadside of the clockfuse first.
Look for any sign of abrasion or damage/corrosion to the 6 way plug and
socket. Spray liberally with a contact cleaner.
Btw, if you haven't a multimeter a 12v bulb will work just as well.
As to the s1r, I'm still in awe.