07-05-14, 01:00 AM
For about £8 you can get an infra-red temperature gun which can be useful for checking to see which cylinder is running a bit cooler (though you may also be able to judge by comparing how fast water evaporates off the pipes when you wet them).
Another thing you can do is check the fuel levels in the carb float bowls: shove a transparent tube over the drain spigot and held up to form a U will show the level when you open the drain screw.
Those might give a clue as to where the problem is.
Other things you can do that might help (without involving much dismantling) include a check that the choke plungers all move OK… and experimenting with the mixture screws, try resetting them to 2 turns out, see if there's any improvement, if not, try winding them out a quarter turn and repeat. Factory setting seems to be about 2.5 turns, some find 4 or 5 turns is what theirs like. The carb for cylinder 3 is a pain to get at, removing the starter motor helps access.
If it may well be that the carbs just need a clean, you shouldn't need any bits just to open and reassemble them, the float bowl seals are synthetic rubber and mine have always been reusable. If water has got in the fuel system there's a good chance there will be plenty of rusty crud built up around the needle valve… the mixture of water, steel, brass and zinc alloy guarantees corrosion.
Another thing you can do is check the fuel levels in the carb float bowls: shove a transparent tube over the drain spigot and held up to form a U will show the level when you open the drain screw.
Those might give a clue as to where the problem is.
Other things you can do that might help (without involving much dismantling) include a check that the choke plungers all move OK… and experimenting with the mixture screws, try resetting them to 2 turns out, see if there's any improvement, if not, try winding them out a quarter turn and repeat. Factory setting seems to be about 2.5 turns, some find 4 or 5 turns is what theirs like. The carb for cylinder 3 is a pain to get at, removing the starter motor helps access.
If it may well be that the carbs just need a clean, you shouldn't need any bits just to open and reassemble them, the float bowl seals are synthetic rubber and mine have always been reusable. If water has got in the fuel system there's a good chance there will be plenty of rusty crud built up around the needle valve… the mixture of water, steel, brass and zinc alloy guarantees corrosion.