30-03-14, 09:31 PM
Removing the stud
Grind the stud flat within a few mm to the head, put a good deep punch mark dead centre and use a lefthand drill bit to drill it out. I have found that this method often spins the stud out. Start carefully with a 3 or 4 mm bit and work up. I usual use a 3mm bit to start, but they are easy to break if not extremely careful. If unsure start with a 4mm.
Removing the cams.
More of a fiddly than difficult job to do.
Take your time and make sure you have access to a good quality torque wrench when putting it back together as cam caps bolts only require 10Nm torque.
Remove the Alternator cover and line up the marks (T mark with the crankcase mating point at the front) Cam marks should line up exactly or within a few mm. If they are not within a few mm of the marks, it indicates chain wear and might be worth considering changing the chain. Post a picture of the cam marks looking down straight as it is difficult to judge from the picture you have up.
Remove the Tensioner cap bolt.
Remove the cam Chain tensioner
Remove the cam chain guide.
Now the inlet cam first.
Loosen all the cam cap bolts a little first in a crisscross pattern, both sides should be treated as one whole piece.
Now loosen bolts evenly to about 1.5mm above the cam caps.
Cam caps may be stuck in place due to the tight tolerances of the dowels.
If cam caps do not move tap them gently. They might pop up with a crack and scare the crap out of you. :lol
Keep unscrewing all 11 bolts (Guide bolt is already removed) evenly a little at the time until they are all loose enough to be removed and there is no pressure on the cam caps,
Remove the cam caps and the 6 dowels. Try not to drop the bolts or dowels down the chain tunnel. :'(
The cam caps must go back on the exact same place and way they were removed.
Lift up the cam and roll it towards the front of the engine, lift off the chain and tie it up. The cam must also go back in the same position.
Now do the exhaust cam.
Grind the stud flat within a few mm to the head, put a good deep punch mark dead centre and use a lefthand drill bit to drill it out. I have found that this method often spins the stud out. Start carefully with a 3 or 4 mm bit and work up. I usual use a 3mm bit to start, but they are easy to break if not extremely careful. If unsure start with a 4mm.
Removing the cams.
More of a fiddly than difficult job to do.
Take your time and make sure you have access to a good quality torque wrench when putting it back together as cam caps bolts only require 10Nm torque.Remove the Alternator cover and line up the marks (T mark with the crankcase mating point at the front) Cam marks should line up exactly or within a few mm. If they are not within a few mm of the marks, it indicates chain wear and might be worth considering changing the chain. Post a picture of the cam marks looking down straight as it is difficult to judge from the picture you have up.
Remove the Tensioner cap bolt.
Remove the cam Chain tensioner
Remove the cam chain guide.
Now the inlet cam first.
Loosen all the cam cap bolts a little first in a crisscross pattern, both sides should be treated as one whole piece.
Now loosen bolts evenly to about 1.5mm above the cam caps.
Cam caps may be stuck in place due to the tight tolerances of the dowels.
If cam caps do not move tap them gently. They might pop up with a crack and scare the crap out of you. :lol
Keep unscrewing all 11 bolts (Guide bolt is already removed) evenly a little at the time until they are all loose enough to be removed and there is no pressure on the cam caps,
Remove the cam caps and the 6 dowels. Try not to drop the bolts or dowels down the chain tunnel. :'(
The cam caps must go back on the exact same place and way they were removed.
Lift up the cam and roll it towards the front of the engine, lift off the chain and tie it up. The cam must also go back in the same position.
Now do the exhaust cam.