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Battery/Electric Woes
#2

12.8v after a week in the bike sounds fine, but I'd move the various chargers you have to a circuit that goes off with the ignition unless it's essential to have them powered all the time.
You say they're wired direct to the battery, I trust you have a fuse in the circuit (as close to the battery as possible)!


The odometer, specifically the trip meter, is the circuit that draws a tiny amount of power when the ignition's off. Making series voltage measurements isn't usually useful, modern multimeters have a very high impedance so something drawing a millionth of an amp will be enough to register near to the battery voltage.


Before taking it for another spin, examine all the wiring and connectors, especially those in the charging circuit. A very fine screwdriver or a filed down staple of the beefy kind used to secure cardboard boxes makes a good tool for freeing connectors from their housings so they can be tightened with a squeeze from some pliers. You want to feel some resistance as you push them together.


A check of the battery voltage with the engine running will tell you if the charging system is working. At 5000rpm it should generate enough to supply heated grips and lights and push enough current into the battery to get the terminals up to at least 13.8v. With no electrical load and max engine revs the battery voltage shouldn't rise up much beyond 14.8v.
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Messages In This Thread
Battery/Electric Woes - by andeh - 30-12-13, 02:49 PM
Re: Battery/Electric Woes - by Fazerider - 30-12-13, 04:26 PM
Re: Battery/Electric Woes - by andeh - 30-12-13, 05:13 PM
Re: Battery/Electric Woes - by Fazerider - 30-12-13, 06:18 PM

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