27-10-13, 02:22 AM
OK, according to the Haynes Book of fibs, you DON'T need the ECU.
To test your ignition switch, disconnect it, then on the switch side of the connector (have you a digital multimeter??), you should have continuity between red & brown / black wires, and between brown / black & brown / red wires while in the ON position.
In the OFF position, there should be no continuity anywhere.
In the PARK position, you should have continuity between brown / red & red wires.
(Disconnect your battery before carrying out these tests!).
To remove the ignition switch from the yoke requires drilling two shear-head screws - any competent engineering shop should be able to do this for you for a nominal fee.
If your immobiliser transceiver is faulty (from here, I don't think it is), you merely replace it, and put the system in registration mode with the red key (which is then used to register your black standard use keys).
I think your Yam dealer is having you on.
To test your ignition switch, disconnect it, then on the switch side of the connector (have you a digital multimeter??), you should have continuity between red & brown / black wires, and between brown / black & brown / red wires while in the ON position.
In the OFF position, there should be no continuity anywhere.
In the PARK position, you should have continuity between brown / red & red wires.
(Disconnect your battery before carrying out these tests!).
To remove the ignition switch from the yoke requires drilling two shear-head screws - any competent engineering shop should be able to do this for you for a nominal fee.
If your immobiliser transceiver is faulty (from here, I don't think it is), you merely replace it, and put the system in registration mode with the red key (which is then used to register your black standard use keys).
I think your Yam dealer is having you on.