(26-10-13, 07:11 PM)69oldskool link Wrote: How's this sound for testing the reg/rect?You theory is good but flawed unfortunately, disconnecting the output lead could damage the regulator as the battery is a functional part of the charging circuit. There is a simpler way as mentioned in one of my previous posts and no disconnection of any wires required.
Disconnect Red output lead,stick mulitmeter across output on 20v ish a/c voltage range~ run bike, but keep revs to a minimum, if ac voltage shows, rectifier part is swiss cheese~ chuck in nearest wheely bin.
If no a/c switch to dc voltage range~ & check it's in the ballpark of 12-15v.ish.
Stop engine &Reconnect output lead,then test regulator circuit as per factory manual with engine running.
Please DO NOT try 'til one of our more knowledgeable members has commented~ It's a plan, but it may be flawed
Set the meter to AC and with everything connected start the bike and check the voltage between the white wires of the alternator this is done 3 times accross the different wires to check all the alternator coils; (push the meter leads (carefully) into the back of the plug) it should read around 18 to 20 volts AC. Revving the engine to 2000 revs will increase the AC voltage dramatically, if this is the case then the Alternator is working. If this does not happen the alternator is faulty. [size=1em]With the engine running at tick over, set the meter to DC and the voltage measured across the battery should read over 12v and go up to an absolute maximum of 14.4 (may be a little bit less) when the engine is revved over 5000 revs. If the voltage does not increase and you have 18v AC + from the alternator then the regulator is faulty. If the voltage goes over 14.4 volts then the regulator is also faulty.[/size]
[size=1em]Glad to see Boris appears to have found the problem.[/size]