23-10-13, 07:46 PM
Thanks for the vote of confidence Foccers 
Under no circumstances should you remove the battery with the engines running on alternator based systems, especially on bikes (or cars) with ECUs and Electronic Regulators. :eek The systems are not designed to run without the battery. The fazer has an ECU and an electronic rectifier/regulator which is normally called the Regulator. Fazer Alternators are 3 phase Alternating Current (AC) devices and the AC is converted by the Rectifier to direct current (DC) and the Regulator controls the DC output based on the battery condition and electrical load.You will most likely fry the Regulator and after frying that you are likely to fry the ECU and then the Alternator. Lucky for you the bike stopped and the worst you may have done is fry the Rectifier/Regulator unless you have a faulty alternator, in which case you are lucky.Disconnect the plug from the regulator and the resistance between the white wire connectors should be between 0.36 to 0.44 Ohms. (Don't know where you got you info. from) :thumbdown There should be no reading from the white wire connectors to the frame (earth). If the resistance is higher the output will be lower and if there is continuity to earth output will be lower again.Your reading is on the high side but could be from a bad connection between the meter and the connectors.The resistance readings on their own are not enough to prove the alternator is good. You could have insulation break down when under load or when hot. Set the meter to AC and with everything connected start the bike and check the voltage between the white wires; (push the meter leads (carefully) into the back of the plug) it should read around 18 to 20 volts AC. With the engine running at tick over the voltage across the battery should read over 12v and go up to an absolute maximum of 14.4 when the engine is revved over 5000 revs. If the voltage does not increase and you have 19 to 20v AC from the alternator then the regulator is faulty.
Under no circumstances should you remove the battery with the engines running on alternator based systems, especially on bikes (or cars) with ECUs and Electronic Regulators. :eek The systems are not designed to run without the battery. The fazer has an ECU and an electronic rectifier/regulator which is normally called the Regulator. Fazer Alternators are 3 phase Alternating Current (AC) devices and the AC is converted by the Rectifier to direct current (DC) and the Regulator controls the DC output based on the battery condition and electrical load.You will most likely fry the Regulator and after frying that you are likely to fry the ECU and then the Alternator. Lucky for you the bike stopped and the worst you may have done is fry the Rectifier/Regulator unless you have a faulty alternator, in which case you are lucky.Disconnect the plug from the regulator and the resistance between the white wire connectors should be between 0.36 to 0.44 Ohms. (Don't know where you got you info. from) :thumbdown There should be no reading from the white wire connectors to the frame (earth). If the resistance is higher the output will be lower and if there is continuity to earth output will be lower again.Your reading is on the high side but could be from a bad connection between the meter and the connectors.The resistance readings on their own are not enough to prove the alternator is good. You could have insulation break down when under load or when hot. Set the meter to AC and with everything connected start the bike and check the voltage between the white wires; (push the meter leads (carefully) into the back of the plug) it should read around 18 to 20 volts AC. With the engine running at tick over the voltage across the battery should read over 12v and go up to an absolute maximum of 14.4 when the engine is revved over 5000 revs. If the voltage does not increase and you have 19 to 20v AC from the alternator then the regulator is faulty.