Do you mean the holes in the damper rod? Going by the SV650 forums / threads / guides etc, there is considerable debate as to whether enlarging the existing holes is enough or whether extra holes are required. Racetech themselves claim that you MUST drill extra holes - for example, someone on this link has provided RT's instructions (point number '3'). http://hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1355
Others have argued that making a total of six holes is excessive and argue either for fewer holes (such as four in total, often 10mm wide) or just widening the existing holes only. AFAIK some of this particular debate is in relation to using the emulators for racing purposes, where they are very popular.
From our point of view, it might be a case of trying to widen the existing holes to 8mm, but if the standard compression still works you'll have to take it all apart & redrill the rods again. I went with six holes but different sizes as they went up the damper rod - bottom two holes 8.5mm, next two 8mm and top two holes 6mm. Another alternative may be to try only four 8mm holes, but i'm no liquid flow expert, so can't be certain what minimum area of damper rod material needs to be removed in order to kill off the standard compression damping.
The allen bolt through the emulator is threaded at the bottom, as it didn't fly apart when I removed the bottom nut! To set preload on the emulator, take the bottom nut completely off, then loosen the allen bolt until it barely touches the washer / spring.
Then rotate the allen bolt to give preload between 2 to 4 full turns. The SV650 mob suggest 2.5 turns so I went with that. 3 might be better if you are....big boned. 4 turns would be more suited for the racetrack environment. 5 turns needed if you're on a Harley, apparently. Once you have set preload, hold the allen bolt steady in postion, put the bottom nut back on & tighten her up. Dont allow the top allen bolt to start moving once the bottom nut nips up as I think it's one of those nyloc jobbies.
Others have argued that making a total of six holes is excessive and argue either for fewer holes (such as four in total, often 10mm wide) or just widening the existing holes only. AFAIK some of this particular debate is in relation to using the emulators for racing purposes, where they are very popular.
From our point of view, it might be a case of trying to widen the existing holes to 8mm, but if the standard compression still works you'll have to take it all apart & redrill the rods again. I went with six holes but different sizes as they went up the damper rod - bottom two holes 8.5mm, next two 8mm and top two holes 6mm. Another alternative may be to try only four 8mm holes, but i'm no liquid flow expert, so can't be certain what minimum area of damper rod material needs to be removed in order to kill off the standard compression damping.
The allen bolt through the emulator is threaded at the bottom, as it didn't fly apart when I removed the bottom nut! To set preload on the emulator, take the bottom nut completely off, then loosen the allen bolt until it barely touches the washer / spring.
Then rotate the allen bolt to give preload between 2 to 4 full turns. The SV650 mob suggest 2.5 turns so I went with that. 3 might be better if you are....big boned. 4 turns would be more suited for the racetrack environment. 5 turns needed if you're on a Harley, apparently. Once you have set preload, hold the allen bolt steady in postion, put the bottom nut back on & tighten her up. Dont allow the top allen bolt to start moving once the bottom nut nips up as I think it's one of those nyloc jobbies.