08-05-13, 12:32 PM
I would have more liked to have replaced the chain guides rather than the tensioner, but as I changed the chain by cutting and joining I did not have the engine in enough bits to be able to replace the rear guide that actually keeps the tension and probably takes the worst wear, nothing looked too bad and I was happy the tensioner was mid range not almost at it's end as it had been before changing the chain.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6858.0.html
Putting together a couple of the above posts, I would slide the carbs back attached to airbox, remove the centre bolt & spring on the tensioner, carefully remove tensioner and see how many clicks it has left and decide from thereĀ
Tip: smear the inlet rubbers with silicon grease to help ease the carbs back in, helps a lot.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6858.0.html
Putting together a couple of the above posts, I would slide the carbs back attached to airbox, remove the centre bolt & spring on the tensioner, carefully remove tensioner and see how many clicks it has left and decide from thereĀ

Tip: smear the inlet rubbers with silicon grease to help ease the carbs back in, helps a lot.