04-05-13, 09:38 PM
(04-05-13, 06:30 PM)Falcon 269 link Wrote: If it's not a stuck float chances are it's the float needle seat O-rings:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthr...ilure+mode
The key to getting the carbs in and out easily is to make sure the airbox goes back far enough. You should get about 1cm clearance between the carb and the airbox side rubber boot. To do this, pull the EXUP cables out from behind the airbox and also look for the zip tie on the crossframe rail. If the block on this joker is in the wrong place, it will rob you of clearance.
Re the airbox rubbers, here's a tip. When you slacken the clamps, push them back on the stubs and then re-tighten them. This prevents them fouling and also helps keep the stubs round. A squirt of silicon lube or WD40 on re-fitting helps a lot, too - particularly in getting the carbs into the head-side stubs.
OK, much appreciated!
I'll try tomorrow knocking the carbs once more, this time with fuel in them. Previous attempts were made on drained carbs, maybe the floating floats are easier to unseat. If that fails, I'll have to pull the carbs, and I'll replace the O-rings anyway while I'm at it. The bike has only 30,000 kms but 10 years on it, so it wouldn't surprise me if some substandard O-ring would have gone bad.
I wonder what determines where the fuel comes out? As mentioned, the previous time it all just flowed out of carb overflow hoses, but now those are dry and it just oozes out from the carb.
Anyone know any Euro webshops that would sell those 7,5*1,5 mm O-rings?
By the way, is it absolutely necessary to drain the coolant before removing carbs, as the shop manual states?