28-09-12, 12:39 AM
Buy the Haynes Manual first and then download the Yamaha service manual from the down loads section. Having both is better than just one and the Haynes pictures are helpful to beginners.
These are the items requiring removal:
There is no need to remove the engine
Remove the Tank
Remove the side panels on air box
Remove the side covers
Remove the coils and fuel pump
Remove the carbs
Remove the cam cover end caps
Remove the bolt holding the Coolant filler/thermostat
Remove the Alternator Cover and tie it up
Remove the cam chain tensioner (remove the bolt and spring at the end first to release the pressure on the tensioner
Remove the cam cover from the left side and move the coolant filler/thermostat to facilitate removal of the cover.
Remove the spark plugs and cover the spark plug holes just to stop anything from fallin in.
Break the chain and be careful no to drop anything down the chain tunnel
Remove the cams
With the cams removed you can turn the crank as all valves are closed and no compression as plugs are removed.
Under no circumstance turn the crank until the plugs and cams are removed.
Make sure all dowels are out of the inlet side of the head as they will impede the refitting of the inlet camshaft
Lining them up on refitting is fiddly but with a new chain all timing marks should line correctly
The split link is not as we know it but what is known as a soft link which can be peened over like the like on the drive chain.
However I would recommend that the peening over of the soft link is not done by a novice.
I did not find the motion pro tool or type tool very effective and reverted to the heavy and light hammer method
These are the items requiring removal:
There is no need to remove the engine
Remove the Tank
Remove the side panels on air box
Remove the side covers
Remove the coils and fuel pump
Remove the carbs
Remove the cam cover end caps
Remove the bolt holding the Coolant filler/thermostat
Remove the Alternator Cover and tie it up
Remove the cam chain tensioner (remove the bolt and spring at the end first to release the pressure on the tensioner
Remove the cam cover from the left side and move the coolant filler/thermostat to facilitate removal of the cover.
Remove the spark plugs and cover the spark plug holes just to stop anything from fallin in.
Break the chain and be careful no to drop anything down the chain tunnel
Remove the cams
With the cams removed you can turn the crank as all valves are closed and no compression as plugs are removed.
Under no circumstance turn the crank until the plugs and cams are removed.
Make sure all dowels are out of the inlet side of the head as they will impede the refitting of the inlet camshaft
Lining them up on refitting is fiddly but with a new chain all timing marks should line correctly
The split link is not as we know it but what is known as a soft link which can be peened over like the like on the drive chain.
However I would recommend that the peening over of the soft link is not done by a novice.
I did not find the motion pro tool or type tool very effective and reverted to the heavy and light hammer method