18-05-12, 01:34 PM
You state you have deposits on the dics yet you are now saying there isn't any!
The disc in the picture is a make I don't recognise but the surface looks fine to me, obviously without clocking with a DTI I've got know idea as to whether it has excessive run out or not. Modifications to the pad spring is totally unnecessary and only done to hide a serious fault i.e. worn inner caliper bodies and/or cheap pads that are too small and that move excessively within the body causing accelerated wear. The calipers are designed by experts and work extremely well they don't require modifications to make the work, if they fail to work as they should something is WRONG!
Most cheaper and some quality pads are too small only by a few mm in some cases but enough to allow the pad to move excessively under braking. This wears the caliper body on the pad mating surfaces, which in turn makes the already over large tolerance between pad/body even bigger, EBC was really bad some years back one of the reasons I stopped fitting them.
Providing all the pistons are free within the calipers they will not will not cause brake judder. That said if any are semi seized or seized this will distort the disc/s and can give you judder, the same will apply if the centre rota has become bent. If your calipers have badly worn inner matting surfaces this to can cause judder by trapping the pad in the worn area/s and not allowing the whole pad surface to contact the disc.
If the pads you're taking out are tapered either top to bottom or end to end you have the above issue which could be caliper body or retaining pin wear and or semi seized or seized pistons.
There are also many fake products on the market all packaged as quality parts even stealers get caught out. Personally I wouldn't bother with after market discs unless they are from quality suppliers, often these days OEM is cheaper or only slightly more expensive. I recently replaced the disc on my GSXR due to pitting OEM was cheaper than EBC!!!!
As others have stated dics/pads aren't the only reason you get brake judder thoroughly check the head races, forks, wheel bearings, wheel spindle and cracked/bent frame. I would remove those disc check you OEM ones for wear and run out if ok refit, check the calipers for excessive body wear, semi seized or seized service/replace as required put in OEM pads that are square or fit SBS.
These calipers are the dogs boll%$ks but require attention to keep them that way deposits..........red herring!!!
The disc in the picture is a make I don't recognise but the surface looks fine to me, obviously without clocking with a DTI I've got know idea as to whether it has excessive run out or not. Modifications to the pad spring is totally unnecessary and only done to hide a serious fault i.e. worn inner caliper bodies and/or cheap pads that are too small and that move excessively within the body causing accelerated wear. The calipers are designed by experts and work extremely well they don't require modifications to make the work, if they fail to work as they should something is WRONG!
Most cheaper and some quality pads are too small only by a few mm in some cases but enough to allow the pad to move excessively under braking. This wears the caliper body on the pad mating surfaces, which in turn makes the already over large tolerance between pad/body even bigger, EBC was really bad some years back one of the reasons I stopped fitting them.
Providing all the pistons are free within the calipers they will not will not cause brake judder. That said if any are semi seized or seized this will distort the disc/s and can give you judder, the same will apply if the centre rota has become bent. If your calipers have badly worn inner matting surfaces this to can cause judder by trapping the pad in the worn area/s and not allowing the whole pad surface to contact the disc.
If the pads you're taking out are tapered either top to bottom or end to end you have the above issue which could be caliper body or retaining pin wear and or semi seized or seized pistons.
There are also many fake products on the market all packaged as quality parts even stealers get caught out. Personally I wouldn't bother with after market discs unless they are from quality suppliers, often these days OEM is cheaper or only slightly more expensive. I recently replaced the disc on my GSXR due to pitting OEM was cheaper than EBC!!!!
As others have stated dics/pads aren't the only reason you get brake judder thoroughly check the head races, forks, wheel bearings, wheel spindle and cracked/bent frame. I would remove those disc check you OEM ones for wear and run out if ok refit, check the calipers for excessive body wear, semi seized or seized service/replace as required put in OEM pads that are square or fit SBS.
These calipers are the dogs boll%$ks but require attention to keep them that way deposits..........red herring!!!
Later