21-04-12, 09:48 PM
Don't get carried away, chap ... I'll talk to anybody, me. :lol
The cautionary on 'reasonable force' was aimed at the wider audience, if you follow me. Not everyone who reads the forums understands the concept of 'gently, gently'.
The adjusters have many more clicks of movement than are actually mentioned in the Owners' Manual so your 17+ is nothing to fret over.
Take a look at this link and in particular the re-assembly description. It covers the process of presetting the adjuster before refitting the top cap. Also note that if the top caps aren't installed to the same position on the damper tube it will also affect rebound damping adjustment.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/ravenriderssu...rade.shtml
For the adjusters to move different distances for a given amount of rotation would mean that they have different thread pitches. That would be most odd but might point to one fork leg being from a different bike - maybe a crash damage replacement?
Since the damping adjustment on the Gen 1 forks is essentially 'on, off, somewhere in the middle', I wouldn't lose sleep over any minor difference from one side to the other. There's no reliable way of comparing damping levels but since they're all clamped together firmly, they effectively act as one unit. Indeed, that's why many modern forks have compression damping in one leg and rebound damping in the other.
The cautionary on 'reasonable force' was aimed at the wider audience, if you follow me. Not everyone who reads the forums understands the concept of 'gently, gently'.

The adjusters have many more clicks of movement than are actually mentioned in the Owners' Manual so your 17+ is nothing to fret over.
Take a look at this link and in particular the re-assembly description. It covers the process of presetting the adjuster before refitting the top cap. Also note that if the top caps aren't installed to the same position on the damper tube it will also affect rebound damping adjustment.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/ravenriderssu...rade.shtml
For the adjusters to move different distances for a given amount of rotation would mean that they have different thread pitches. That would be most odd but might point to one fork leg being from a different bike - maybe a crash damage replacement?
Since the damping adjustment on the Gen 1 forks is essentially 'on, off, somewhere in the middle', I wouldn't lose sleep over any minor difference from one side to the other. There's no reliable way of comparing damping levels but since they're all clamped together firmly, they effectively act as one unit. Indeed, that's why many modern forks have compression damping in one leg and rebound damping in the other.
