15-02-12, 10:22 AM
Yes, you could try raising the standard forks up through the yokes. It would be 40-45mm through the yokes to be similar. Fit a cable tie to see what height the fork travel is reaching. I'd start with 35mm & then move to 40mm.
The main area of concern re impact damage appears to the horn. On full travel it looks like the mudguard will collide with it first. Have a look at one of the pictures in my thread that shows the horn bracket fitted upside down, the horn reversed & then a spacer under the horn raising it up off the bracket along with a longer bolt to attach it. I can take it off & provide more photos if needed, tho i'm sure you can work out what I did. This moved mine up to the same height as the centre of the lower yoke.
Not sure if you could do anything to move the radiator.
Apart from that just make sure the brake lines aren't going to get crushed.
As a final precaution i'd advise upping your preload a bit or at least avoiding stoppies until you see where the cable tie moves up to.
You're right, I was lucky with revised forks & took advantage of the fact that everyone (including early R6 owners) wanted to move to USD forks, so bargains pop up all the time. The fact that the R6 forks fitted the FZS yokes was a big draw to fitting them. The revised setup was the clincher for me, although I'm fairly certain even the standard R6 fork valving would be superior to the FZS.
There may be hope for the standard forks radically raised, let us know how you get on.
The main area of concern re impact damage appears to the horn. On full travel it looks like the mudguard will collide with it first. Have a look at one of the pictures in my thread that shows the horn bracket fitted upside down, the horn reversed & then a spacer under the horn raising it up off the bracket along with a longer bolt to attach it. I can take it off & provide more photos if needed, tho i'm sure you can work out what I did. This moved mine up to the same height as the centre of the lower yoke.
Not sure if you could do anything to move the radiator.
Apart from that just make sure the brake lines aren't going to get crushed.
As a final precaution i'd advise upping your preload a bit or at least avoiding stoppies until you see where the cable tie moves up to.
You're right, I was lucky with revised forks & took advantage of the fact that everyone (including early R6 owners) wanted to move to USD forks, so bargains pop up all the time. The fact that the R6 forks fitted the FZS yokes was a big draw to fitting them. The revised setup was the clincher for me, although I'm fairly certain even the standard R6 fork valving would be superior to the FZS.
There may be hope for the standard forks radically raised, let us know how you get on.