12-02-12, 10:02 PM
Quote: Regarding car oils, there's an interesting discussion here: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,666.msg3946.html#msg3946I stand by everything I wrote in that thread ... because it is all still true :lol To summarise: Car oil and bike oil are the same - unless your name is Rossi. Mr Yamaha says use any 10-30 or 10-40 oil that meets the SL or CF spec ... so do what he says. His warning against "car oils" results from the occasional use of friction modifiers that will screw-up your clutch - so avoid GTX magnatec cos its got Molybdenum sulphide in it. (Its a detergent-like molecule with a "metal end" and an "oily end" so it sticks to oil and metal.) The only additive you need is Zink dialkyl phosphate - and its in oils that meet the SL or CF spec- so use them. Cheap oil (that meets the SL of CF spec) is better at 3000 miles than any 'wonder oil' at 6000 miles - so if you love your engine then use Asda semi-synth 10/30 and change it at 3K miles. The viscosity indicators (10W/40 etc) are a lot more complex than "10 Centigrade" and "40 Centigrade" - do your own research. 20/50 oil is OK in a Fazer if you live in a hot desert where the temperature never drops below 10C - if you live in the UK - use 10/30 or 10/40. I could go on - but I won't. :rollin