Clutch slow to release especially in 1st

[HarryHornby]

Gonna do separate posts for each issue, rather than things get lost in a general one.

OK, so did some town and country side riding last night, mainly to test the lights!  OMG, mission accomplished, I can see the road!  LOADS better than the FZS - Anyway....

I now see what B1kerDude meant about the clutch.  It's almost as though it's not releasing, slipping (not sure if that is right).  But it's like it's delayed, especially when in first.  Get to the bite (closer to the handlebars now I've adjusted it, nice) and it doesn't "engage" for a split second, and then does, causing a not so smooth pull away.

B1kerdude may well be right about the cable sticking, let's hope so, easy fix for my bike shop, hopefully.  Hydraulic etc sounds lovely, but funds need to be spent wisely, and not all at once :-)

[Gnasher]

Take it back, don't touch it, you've just bought it, there shouldn't be anything that's not working and it's under a limited warranty.

This could be anything from the cable needs oiling, sticking clutch release mechanism, to a buggered clutch drum. Same goes for anything else that's wrong, as mentioned before dealers don't like doing work on bikes they sell especially valve and this type of thing.  What they bank on is new owners won't know it's a defect before the bike will be out of it's limited warranty, or it breaks having then done ex amount of miles and they'll blame you.

Call them today and take it back ASAP.

[unfazed]

I agree, contact them immediately and return with it as ASAP. Most likely it needs a new clutch cable, but always possible it is something more.
Not to uncommon for the inners of a cable to come apart and make the cable stiff usually from water getting which can happen on the FZ6 at the centre cable adjuster if the cap is not pushed back after adjusting, very like what happens on the FZS1000.
Oiling helps, but just puts off the inevitable.

[b1k3rdude]

I now see what B1kerDude meant about the clutch.  It's almost as though it's not releasing, slipping (not sure if that is right).  But it's like it's delayed, especially when in first.  Get to the bite (closer to the handlebars now I've adjusted it, nice) and it doesn't "engage" for a split second, and then does, causing a not so smooth pull away.

B1kerdude may well be right about the cable sticking, let's hope so, easy fix for my bike shop, hopefully.  Hydraulic etc sounds lovely, but funds need to be spent wisely, and not all at once :-)

Before you ride all the way back to the shop, get a cable oiler.

I had a similar issue with the clutch cable on my FZ1 a few weeks ago (which i thought I mentioned), and flushing the cable through mostly resolved the issue making the bike way more pleasant to ride. I flushed it with Double T lubricant spray.

- https://www.amazon.co.uk/cable-oiler/s?k=cable+oiler
- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-TT-Maint...B00499DFLY

If the issue mostly resolves itself, then you can either go back to the shop (get them to swap the cable) or buy and fit a replacement from Venhill.

[HarryHornby]

Cheers Bikerdude, that spray, isn't the easiest to find for sale. Will WD40 work? Seems (according to me) to be pretty much the same, water displacement, cleaning etc etc

[b1k3rdude]

 that spray, isn't the easiest to find for sale.  

As Gnasher will probably tell you - WD40 is fine for penetrating, but not really lubricating.

That DoubleT I found in my local auto factors, and again channelling my inner Gnasher, I imagine he would say GT85 should do the trick...

So yes at a push you could clean out the cable with WD40, but then liberally flush with GT85, or just clean and flush with GT85.

[Grahamm]

Will WD40 work?  Seems (according to me) to be pretty much the same, water displacement, cleaning etc etc

WD40 isn't a lubricant and, worse, gets sticky, so can attract more gunk!

Slinkyglide recommend Lithium spray lube which seems to do the job.

[unfazed]

Always wise to have a spare clutch cable lying around. A broken can really ruin a good trip.

I am on my third one on the 600. First one frayed at the sprocket end after 30,000 miles and the second one went at the handlebar adjusted end at 101,000 miles

[Gnasher]

Before you ride all the way back to the shop, get a cable oiler.

My advice DON'T you've just bought this bike something simple as oiling a cable SHOULD have been done on the pre sale service they said the bike would get.  Now if they've not done/found out the clutch isn't working and/or oiled a simple cable whats the chances of them having done the valve check...........ZERO!

This is classic dearler/stealer shit I see it more and more these days as money is getting tight they don't want to do anything, as doing so eats at their profit!

If you touch anything or tell them "I oiled the cable etc" you've stated your not the most confidant with spanners and they find out/you tell them, they'll blame you and walk away from their responsibilities.  To them it's money i.e. their profit margin on the bike.  This has the makings of a horror story if you don't handle this correctly TAKE IT BACK.  Don't allow your enthusiasm for your new bike to get the better of you.  IF the bike has hidden issues these are only going to get worst as time goes on and turn what is a love affair into "I wished I listened!"  I've seen this time and time again!

As Gnasher will probably tell you - WD40 is fine for penetrating, but not really lubricating.

Correct it is was developed for chasing out water/moisture and as a cleaner for aircraft/missile electrical circuits hence its name Rocket WD40 (Water Displacement 40th) back in the 50's.  It does have some lubricating properties but it evaporates and will leave a surface oil free and it will corrode in time. 

That DoubleT I found in my local auto factors

This stuff it basically a copy of WD40, once they lost the patent everyone and his dog in the lub world copied and put out their version.   

channelling my inner Gnasher, I imagine he would say GT85 should do the trick...

This stuff is better for lubricating as it contains PTFE but it's not not as good as oil and lubing cables with a cable oiler. 

So yes at a push you could clean out the cable with WD40, but then liberally flush with GT85, or just clean and flush with GT85.

You can but see point above.

WD40 isn't a lubricant and, worse, gets sticky, so can attract more gunk!

Only when it's sprayed over crap like old oil/grease or road grime attaches it's self to the surface before it's evaporated.  WD40 will  completely evaporate in normal conditions.

[b1k3rdude]

- My advice DON'T you've just bought this bike something simple as oiling a cable SHOULD have been done on the pre sale service they said the bike would get.  Now if they've not done/found out the clutch isn't working and/or oiled a simple cable whats the chances of them having done the valve check...........ZERO!
- To them it's money i.e. their profit margin on the bike.  IF the bike has hidden issues these are only going to get worst as time goes on and turn what is a love affair into "I wished I listened!"  I've seen this time and time again!

The above point/s are extremely very valid. When I bought my FZ1 I found a bunch of things before and after purchase that I forced the bike shop to remedy. 

Back to the cable, I only noticed it because I have only just lubed the cable on my FZ1. Assuming for a moment its is just the cable, how common is a sticky clutch cable? Is it possible the shop never spotted this?  What's the harm in lubing the cable to see if it fixes the issue..? Harry is under no obligation to tell them he did, nor would they be able to tell if he cleans up any over spray from either end of the cable.

[HarryHornby]

So, my ride home from work last night, work car park, bike was parked on a slight incline, so needed an extra bit of clutch to get going. I noticed it juddered a little. Then, I made a point of riding the clutch a little at the next junctions, same thing. A roads, motorway, A roads for 15 mile and at the next junction I stopped at, I did the same, no judder. Gear changes were smoother. Then, back in town, still smooth. But, I did notice, sometimes a little jerky from 1 to 2 at slower speeds, but fine if giving it more of a handful.

OK, so I asked AI (Chat GPT) about this. Was vague. Just asked if we had spoken about the clutch in a chat we were having about the FZ6 and the results are pretty much what I'm experiencing, so I think, with a cable clean/lube (bits for this coming today) I think I'm ok, but will keep an eye on it over the next few weeks and have mentioned it in my email to the garage yesterday.

Here's what it had to say........

We haven't talked about the clutch yet ? — we did screens, bar ends, buzzing, gearbox whine, but not clutch.

If you’ve got clutch questions, hit me — typical FZ6 clutch chat includes:

Slipping under load?

Grabby on cold starts?

Notchy downshifts?

Clutch cable adjustment?

Lever feel (FZ6 has a fairly heavy pull from factory)

Swapping to a lighter-action lever or different perch

OEM vs EBC plates/springs

Hydraulic conversion (rare but people do it)

Clicking/knocking at idle when clutch out (normal on these)

Let me know what you’re noticing and we’ll diagnose it ?



I've noticed it's got a judder, and yes, as you said, when cold. It did get better when warm. Have noticed it can be a little off/on at times, know what I mean, not always a smooth gear change, even when hot. Usually 2nd or 3rd gear



Yep — I know exactly what you mean.
What you’re describing is very common on the FZ6 and usually points to one of these (in order of likelihood):

✅ Typical FZ6 clutch behaviour

Cold clutch judder (especially pulling away)

Slight grab / on-off feel at low speed

Notchy 1st → 2nd → 3rd shift when cold

Improves once warm

The FZ6 has:

A cable-actuated clutch

Fairly light oil-starved clutch pack when cold

Slight inherent gear lash + primary gear whine

A known tendency to feel "snatchy" below 4k rpm if fueling’s not perfect

So you’re in normal territory… but there are fixes.