08-01-21, 06:46 PM (This post was last modified: 08-01-21, 08:32 PM by b1k3rdude.)
I have finally got round to changing the rear wheel bearings - one is fine, the other is shagged. I noticed that the bearing spacer looks f***ed as well - see pics, am presuming that it will need replacing.
Does anyone know if a Gen 2 FZ1 spacer and spindle will fit?
Cheers!
08-01-21, 08:31 PM (This post was last modified: 08-01-21, 08:34 PM by b1k3rdude.)
On the subject of damage, Gnasher will correct me if I'm looking at this wrong. If a knackered bearing did that, what else did it damage..?
Checking the part numbers and like a lot of parts on the FZS/FZ1 rear wheel, the spacer part number suggests its the same -
Spacer:
FZ1 - 5PW-25317-00
FZS - 5LV-25317-00
Axel:
FZ1 - 2D1-25381-00
FZS - 4FM-25381-20
But regarding a cheap replacement, afaik its just a short length of aluminum tube. So measure the Length, OD & ID and get a local engineering shop to cut you off a section etc.
(08-01-21, 08:31 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: On the subject of damage, Gnasher will correct me if I'm looking at this wrong. If a knackered bearing did that, what else did it damage..?
Oh yes something is well wrong here, the damage looks like the spacers been end floating within the wheel hub which suggest something is missing, I would add I've never seen one that bad :eek Within the wheel hub there's a circlip 2 roller bearings, this spacer, in the sprocket carrier hub 1 loaded needle bearing and a smaller collar which looks like a small spacer and on the outside 2 outer spacers that go between the wheel and the inner area of the swing arm. A common tyre or stealer cock up, is the outer spacers are put in the wrong side or the wrong way around, either will mean there's end float and it will crush the seals. You need to check all of them and the circlip rebate and roller bearing lands within the wheel, if worn (allowing movement) the wheel is shot.
(08-01-21, 08:31 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: afaik its just a short length of aluminum tube. So measure the Length, OD & ID and get a local engineering shop to cut you off a section etc.
It's not aluminum it's steel alloy, but yes as long as it's the same dimensions. ,Unless the engineering shop has tubing of the same dimensions and can just cut off and machine the ends square, my guess is it will cost way more than a new part, even just that will push it over the cost of buying new.
Back to the spacer, I found a number of Yamaha wheel spacer that have 25317 in the part number, so its possible its the same part (eg length, ID/OD etc). Anyway I kept on searching and guess what I found...!!! - link - @clunkie66, you'd better jump on that mate