hi GNASHER...yes,was going to make a wooden frame as i also have some spare downpipes and a standard can, be nice and quiet so i can hear the inner workings and also wont annoy the neighbours ...only be a short run so i wont bother with rad/coolant, just want to make sure its a goodun before i swap...
FAZERSHARP...think you have hit the nail on the head there :lol :lol
TREBUS...good thinking :thumbup ...if alls good it will get a good clean and possibly a paint before it goes in...
All being well the mighty thou should be running on Saturday, iam itching to get out so it will slow progress on the boxeye ...
yesssssss...she lives .....took a bit of churning over but it runs, using the carbs and coils that came with the engine, sticky float valves on two cylinders and one seized drain screw.
two float valves,seats and a good float bowl from my spares pile got her running smoothly with just a prod of the starter, my spare down pipes are blowing and i dont have a gasket between the down pipes and can, add to that the induction roar as i dont have a spare air box i cant hear the engine :lol
might repair the down pipes and make a new gasket but the air box is going to be tricky ...
anyway, happy its a runner and i have not wasted my money
cheers foccers :thumbup .....compression test next job ,then sort the exhaust out so i can hear the engine,if all good ...valves,de-grease,paint,proper carb clean,oil,filter,plugs and anything else you lot can think of :lol
on "grumpy grampy" duties tomorrow as its my grand daughters birthday, so no fazer fettling, will do a compression test on Thursday and post results...
haynes manual quotes min-170 max-225 psi... so i`am way off that, no1 higher than the others but i think within 10% ish is ok....looking back at my "stuttering" thread after i reground the valves i was getting ave 135 psi, bores perfect and runs perfect,even allowing for a bit of wear (49000 miles on original
engine) iam still short of haynes figures.......thinking 135 is good and perhaps the haynes figures are a little high....
using the screwdrive trick i can hear one noisy valve...so thats the next job...
Depending how/where the engine has been stored and for long, it's possible the compression ring/s have sized in the piston groves. 135 is low but the fact they're all pretty much the same it's a very good chance it the above mentioned.
To sort this you've got 3 options, 1 just run the engine and fingers crossed they'll free themselves, 2 add some diesel/paraffin let it soak for a day or two then run the engine, 3 strip it, while you're in there lap the valves.
morning GNASHER...thinking the same on the rings :thumbup ...bikes been stored for 2 ish years in a garden shed,first job i did when i got it home was to squirt some derv/paraffin down the bores and turned it over on the crank a couple of times then left it, think i need to source a radiator and run it up to temp and leave it running for a while. lapping the valves is another great suggestion but i dont really want to spend too much on this engine , i`ll do a valve check, oil/filter and new plugs, plumb in a rad and run it and then do another compression test...if all`s good and i see some improvement i`ll do the swap, could be in there some time while i sort the original engine,if it performs well i`ll lap the valves when i`ve swapped back and sell it on...
going back to my "stuttering thread" a while after lapping the valves and doing a compression test (135 psi ) i had it on the dyno, 1 or 2 bhp down on claimed power when new...makes me question Haynes figures...
If you only got that small drop in power at 135, and these readings are also mostly 135. I'd say that's pointing towards your gauge or how you're doing it or both, when was the last time if ever was the gauge calibrated?
(23-07-20, 01:09 PM)red98 link Wrote: going back to my "stuttering thread" a while after lapping the valves and doing a compression test (135 psi ) i had it on the dyno, 1 or 2 bhp down on claimed power when new...makes me question Haynes figures...
Just a thought of mine. If you are using a screw in tester with an adapter between the compression tester (where the non-return valve is) and the plug hole, then the extra volume of air space in the adapter effectively lowers the compression ratio and thus the gauge shows a lower reading. I can't remember how much it was with the adapter I was using but it was significant.
If you felt so inclined you could do the calculation using Boyle's Law of P1 x V1 = P2 x V2 to see the theoretical difference between with and without the adapter. Unusually for me I didn't record the figures when I did the test but I remember the calculation put my mind at rest.
yes its a screw in tester with an adapter, never had it calibrated so can only use it as a guide, could try it on the thou or cage and see how the figures compare....good points from both of you ,thanks for your repiy`s / input :thumbup
25-07-20, 01:13 PM (This post was last modified: 25-07-20, 01:14 PM by red98.)
mmmmm...not got round to testing my compression tester yet,a good point from GNASHER about it being correct, got a leak on the cage`s rocker cover so whilst i`am sorting that i will try the tester and compare figures...
what i have done this morning is check the valve clearances on the replacement engine....
valve clearances when cold.........intake 0.11-0.20 exhaust 0.21-0.30
27-07-20, 10:51 AM (This post was last modified: 27-07-20, 10:53 AM by red98.)
lifted the exhaust cam out this morning, ive got 2 x 1.72 mm shims on no 4 cylinder,wemoto sell in shims in 0.05 incrrements so if i fit a 1.65 and 1.70 that should give me a clearance of 0.23 on both valves,found my shims but not the right sizes...
shopping list
2 x valve shims
4 x spark plugs
oil filter
oil
then i think i`ll paint the block and head to tidy things up a bit...
(27-07-20, 11:24 AM)robbo link Wrote: Good job :thumbup . Soooooooooo much easier, with the engine out of the bike. Almost looks like a pleasant job. I did say almost :lol .
On some bikes, it's actually easier and faster to remove the engine rather than work around the bike in the frame
yes ,very easy to see what your doing, after laying on the floor for far too long sorting out the thou`s water/oil pump i`am happy to sit down in comfort and tinker away... :thumbup
thinking way ahead now...removing the engine without struggling,the last fazer engine i removed was from a bike i was breaking,left the engine till last,put what was left of the bike on it side removed the engine mounting bolts and lifted the frame off...that was easy but cant do that this time so was thinking of a lifting beam attached to a trolley jack..bit like a small , one forked forklift, will need support on the other end but i do have a winch on a large frame in the garage which i lift car engines out with....just a crazy idea but working on my own i got to make things easy...i can just about lift the engine on its own but wont be able to lift it out of the frame...
Blimey, Paul, just catching up on this thread! Your mechanical ability and patience blows me away! Good luck with the rebuild. Gonna have to drop mine round to you one day for some mechanical love :rollin
Will watch this thread with interest.
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
HARRY.....good to see you posting, still got your FAZER ?
thanks for the kind comments and it pleases me that you find my ramblings interesting, its threads like this that i find helpful,informative,entertaining,amusing and interesting...
thats not why i post this though,its helpful to me as i can go back and read my own posts and see where i have got to...my memory is foccin terrible :\ :lol
...only be a short run so i wont bother with rad/coolant, just want to make sure its a goodun before i swap...
.....took a bit of churning over but it runs, using the carbs and coils that came with the engine, sticky float valves on two cylinders and one seized drain screw.
