Fazer 1000 Suspension woes and more

[Tim270]

Either accept it, or get spacers for the top of the forks...


Which leads me to, is anyone still making the upper tripple spacer and the USD spacers? Everything else seems fairly straight forward.

[kebab19]

Both R1 and R6 forks are indeed shorter than standard forks: the first picture of my R6 5SL fork thread shows the three forks lined up together.  But reduced suspension travel stops the R1 / R6 setup smashing the radiator and other front-end parts. The alternative front-ends will however sit an inch lower, which improves the handling but reduces comfort.

Standard FZS1000 forks have 140mm of suspension travel. The alternative 2003-2004 R6 5SL forks only have 120mm of suspension travel, which offsets the forks being shorter.

[Mustang]

Both R1 and R6 forks are indeed shorter than standard forks: the first picture of my R6 5SL fork thread shows the three forks lined up together.  But reduced suspension travel stops the R1 / R6 setup smashing the radiator and other front-end parts. The alternative front-ends will however sit an inch lower, which improves the handling but reduces comfort.

Standard FZS1000 forks have 140mm of suspension travel. The alternative 2003-2004 R6 5SL forks only have 120mm of suspension travel, which offsets the forks being shorter.

Good answer, thanks, I don’t want to reduce comfort. I have a fireblade for that

[kebab19]

Good answer, thanks, I don’t want to reduce comfort. I have a fireblade for that

Ah yes, it's about 8 years since I've been on one of those torture racks    Then again, with the shorter R6 forks you can add 30mm riser inserts under the Fazer's handlebars and so restore the riding position back to standard...

[Capt]

From what you're describing, the fork lowers may have worn to an unacceptable level - there is apparently an inherent fault with the Gen 1 forks, with the lower fork cartridge / fork lower  wearing against the fork springs and the fork oil then turning to abrasive sludge.  There's a great thread about it here on the FZ1OA site (hopefully you can view it without having to create an account):
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthr...+fork+wear
This problem is exacerbated by not changing the fork oil regularly and the wear becomes so bad that you can apparently feel knocking sensations coming through the forks, almost like the head bearings have gone?
If this is the problem you may well have to replace the front forks, whether they be another pair of standard units (risk of replacement forks having the same problem), R6 5SL right-way-up forks as I fitted to mine back around 2011 or early-ish R1 forks.  The latter two options usually drop the front-end by over an inch, not necessarily a problem but something else to consider.

Interesting reading, do I assume then that OE forks upgraded by KTEC has completely removed this fault described or is just a temporary fix?

[Tim270]

Hey guys,


Just want to say thankyou for the input so far, with the rebuilt forks and a R6 shock the bike is already feeling quite a bit on its way to where I want it. No longer getting po-go'd out the seat over bumps!


Main thing im running into now is what I am pretty sure is the stock mixture/tune. The carbs are stock on this one, the idle is a little rough, feels like it never quite settles and surges a little. Having very noticeable feeling of a bad mixture doing ~20-30 mph in 3rd to 4th gear around town. Feels like its almost wanting to drop a cylinder and surging a little. Its not terrible, but it makes it feel quite jerky. Is this the stock condition of the fueling? hence the Ivans upgrade? Ive already had to snip one of the HT leads due to corrosion so that could be another source of the issue.


Could anyone comment if that feels the same as their stock fueling? or I have have a ignition/sync issue instead.


Cheers!

[ogri48]

I think theres a prob unfortunately, the two ive owned both ran lovely stock, so much so with the second one I thought it had been ivanised. the only time I had summat like your syptoms or at least similar was when it was overfuelling on one. easy enough to check, should be a cold pipe on one cylinder on tickover. mine was my own fault (not cleaned out properly after drilling for ivans) but I guess carb float height could be another reason

[Trebus]

Sounds as though there’s an issue. Been laid up with old fuel?

I was thinking of reviving this thread yesterday. Was going to ask how the forks were? Got some k tech linear springs to fit in mine but still torn on doing a revalve. There seems to be no instructions available for the K tech kits despite being able to buy them.

[Tim270]

Sounds as though there’s an issue. Been laid up with old fuel?

I was thinking of reviving this thread yesterday. Was going to ask how the forks were? Got some k tech linear springs to fit in mine but still torn on doing a revalve. There seems to be no instructions available for the K tech kits despite being able to buy them.

Thanks for the replies guys.


Could be fuel, but my hunch is HT lead currently. Is there a best practice for getting at the plugs without removing the AIS/Rad? or best just to get on with it and drop the rad/ais to get in there.


I did't end up getting springs from K-tech, just bushes/seals/oil as I was going to wait to see how the R6 shock performed before doing front springs. I think once I get other issues sorted, I would be happy enough with just new springs in the front + the R6 shock. Its not perfect but most likely good enough for my need I think.

[robbo]

It's a tough job doing the plugs if you've still got the ais fitted. Most people junk it to make servicing a lot easier. Quite a cheap mod if you've got the time.

[ogri48]

just done me xjr13 with silicone caps and hose clamps. cheap as chips, had no probs, and it looks ok too. Fazer had already been done with the ivans stuff

[kebab19]

I was thinking of reviving this thread yesterday. Was going to ask how the forks were? Got some k tech linear springs to fit in mine but still torn on doing a revalve. There seems to be no instructions available for the K tech kits despite being able to buy them.

Well, that sounds like a nice earner for them - people buy their kit then pay them again to personalise the shimstack :\ .  At least RaceTech have an online service that tells you the exact shimstack setup needed for your specified weight.
Reactive suspension near York do courses on suspension: even if you don't go on it, I suspect they'd probably setup the valves cheaper than K-Tech would.

[Trebus]

I might be wrong but can’t seem to find anything online. Did find the attached PDF but it’s only a small amount of info. Having researched I’m fairly comfortable that this isn’t a mammoth task and am still considering the Racetech kit. I travel to the US with work from time to time so would save a few $ with hand carrying back.

[kebab19]

I don't know what level you feel comfortable working at, but IMO changing the compression valves are not overly difficult. Rebound valves are a bit more grief.  Happy to provide advice if you need it, and there's a thread online somewhere showing early FJR1300 forks, which use the exact same Racetech valve kit.

[Trebus]

Managed to get some new bushes last week from K-Tech before everything got locked down. So have some of their linear springs (eBay bargain), new bushes and fresh oil to stick in over the next few weeks. Hoping for at least a better ride once done. With the uncertainty can’t really justify the spend on the revalve, but got all the bits for about £70.

[Trebus]

Finally got the forks rebuilt but not yet back in the bike. Replaced both bushes and fitted the linear springs.


The lowers don't appear worn but the oil was disgusting despite a non-dismantling change last year. Gave everything a thorough clean and got a lot of shite out of the compression valves. They feel different when compressing on the garage floor so we'll see how it goes!  :rollin

[Tim270]

Good luck!


For me it instantly just highlighted all the other problems I was having  :lol

[Trebus]

? luckily I think everything else is OK. Went with the 10w oil that K Tech recommended with stock valving and the linear springs. I hope it’s not too heavy but not a major issue if they have to come out again for a lighter oil.

[unfazed]

I had 7.5w in the 1000 and it handled brilliantly with great front end feel, when changing the seals last year I decided to try 10w.
It was a very bad mistake, I have just removed the forks to change back to 7.5w.
10w just made it too stiff and despite many adjustments could never get the same front end feel I had with the 7.5w.Looking forward to getting it back to the way it was.

[Trebus]

Hmmmmm.
Cheers unfazed.

Which oil did you use and are you on different springs? I used some of ( I think) your advice regarding the rebound adjuster to 21 clicks before reassembly.

I actually cut and pasted a whole load of information that I gathered from various posts into a text file to use when reassembling the forks. Happy to post it if beneficial to others.