Just received a quick connect fuel fitting for my Triumph. Ordered from Adventure Bike Shop, and wondered why the package was so big and heavy, the free Touratech catalogue was the culprit.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
(08-04-20, 06:04 AM)darrsi link Wrote: Had a try of the new air pump yesterday.
What a lovely bit of useful kit that is. Everything about it was better than the previous one i tried.
The end of the pipe screws onto the valve, rather than faffing about with the push on lever type,
I bought a similar mini-pump that also had the "screw on" connection, but I found that the 90 degree valves I'd had installed to replace the OEM valves (to make it easier to get the air hose onto them) had had the threads worn down over the course of about 12 years and the screw connector wouldn't bite on them!
Fortunately a replacement set wasn't that expensive and now it works fine :thumbup
Gave the exup valve its annual Good hiding with the copper slip , noticed one of the cables had a couple of frayed strands near the nipple , something to keep a eye on but other than that all good
The FZS was running on 2 cylinders (#2&3). Ignition coils seemed OK so I pulled the carbs out and found loads of crap in the bowls and slightly blocked jets.. Carnbs back in.
Still running on same 2 cylinders so pulled the carbs again and cleaned the fuel gallery out. A bit of crap blocking the rail.. Carbs back in.
Now running on 3 1/2 with fuel overflowing from #3. Carbs out again. Float valves cleaned and resealed. Carbs back in.
Now running on 4 but notice a small drip under carb #3. Touch teh pipe with a screwdriver to collect the drip to check if its fuel or coolant and now I have coolant spraying everywhere from a perished carb heater hose. Those feccin carbs are not coming out again in the near future so I will bypass the carb heater circuit for now. I never ride in cold damp conditions normally anyway,
(12-04-20, 01:50 PM)BBROWN1664 link Wrote: The FZS was running on 2 cylinders (#2&3). Ignition coils seemed OK so I pulled the carbs out and found loads of crap in the bowls and slightly blocked jets.. Carnbs back in.
Still running on same 2 cylinders so pulled the carbs again and cleaned the fuel gallery out. A bit of crap blocking the rail.. Carbs back in.
Now running on 3 1/2 with fuel overflowing from #3. Carbs out again. Float valves cleaned and resealed. Carbs back in.
Now running on 4 but notice a small drip under carb #3. Touch teh pipe with a screwdriver to collect the drip to check if its fuel or coolant and now I have coolant spraying everywhere from a perished carb heater hose. Those feccin carbs are not coming out again in the near future so I will bypass the carb heater circuit for now. I never ride in cold damp conditions normally anyway,
That's a pain mate but what happens over time, the rubber gets hardened, when you then flex it, it will crack/split.
The biggest way to prevent the crabs blocking is to, run the bike and turn off the fuel until it stops before laying up over winter. Don't pull it out ever couple weeks and start it either, this just encourages condensation, in the crankcase and shortens oil life.
Just keep the battery charged and leave it alone, roll it out in spring, turn the fuel back on hit the starter
I've been doing the very same to mine for years, I took my Fazer off the road once for almost 5 yrs, I did the above, rolled it out and started it. I didn't even change the fuel, there're too many myths out there.
Now the above will only apply if the bike is garaged and out of the weather.
(12-04-20, 04:46 PM)Gnasher link Wrote: I took my Fazer off the road once for almost 5 yrs, I did the above, rolled it out and started it. I didn't even change the fuel, there're too many myths out there.
I am certain that fuel is the issue these days. My original FZS600 would sit for 2-3 months without even a triclke charge and start on the button. That was 15 years ago though.
The current FZS had been stood for a number of years and the carbs were not gummed up. Leave it now for a couple of months and they start to gum up. The difference now is the amount of ethanol in the fuel that was never there before.
(13-04-20, 05:35 PM)BBROWN1664 link Wrote: Leave it now for a couple of months and they start to gum up. The difference now is the amount of ethanol in the fuel that was never there before.
True that's why you must run the engine until it dies, that way most of the fuel is out of the carbs, which leaves almost nothing to separate and gum up. :thumbup The fuel remaining in the tank, with current fuel may well not behave like it did 15 yrs ago. Personally if I'm going to store a bike for more than a winter I run the bike until it's well into reserve, then do as above, top up with fresh and away it will go. For over winter, I don't bother, just run dry and leave it, all my bikes started first press back in early March, before all this virus thing. :thumbup
4 deg ignition advancer fitted, cam chain guide pin fitted (MIA - never had the cover off before and cannot see any evidence of where it may have gone!), valve clearances checked, oil & filter changed, new fuel filter fitted, carbs off, cleaned and refitted, new inlet rubbers fitted, crap cleaned off the front of the engine, new radiator fitted (new coolant put in) and a new Black Widow exhaust fitted - not all in one day I hasten to add.
:lol :lol :lol :lol
- so apart from a good clean, the Thou is ready to go.
Cajnt see me getting out on the fazer until at last autumn, too many high riskers in the immediate family. So, tank up, and battery on maintenance charge for the forseeable. Such a shame, smashing weather and empty roads.
Scared the FOC out of myself, without even being on it!
I'm planning on replacing the brake lines with braided ones, so I'd taken some pictures to let me look at the setup at my leisure without needing to be out in the shed.
I was looking at one pic on my screen which was of the front brakes, taken from the left hand side of the bike looking through the wheel, when I suddenly noticed a *massive* crack on the inside of the right caliper!!! :eek
WTF?! I'd been riding up until the start of the Lockdown, how the hell had that happened? Jesus, was the bloody thing even safe??
I dashed outside and started trying to figure out where this could be, but couldn't see a thing...
... until, eventually, after moving around and zooming the pic on my phone etc to get it matched up with what I was looking at, I noticed a line that appeared to be the same shape as the crack.
It turns out there's a "lip" on the inside of the caliper and, because I'd used flash, it had cast a shadow which, in the photo looked like a crack...!
Started stripping mine down to give it a good thorough deep clean and do some light maintenance. Removed the headlight assembly, all the mudgaurds, belly pan, radiator covers etc so they can be washed in the bucket then removed the full exhaust system (studs came off with ease... yearly copper greaseing proving its worth) so now I can give that a good buff and polish. Finally got the lambda sensor out of the downpipes and replaced it with a blanking bolt.
Waiting on the new brake parts to arrive so I can service them. In the meantime I'll be out there with a toothbrush cleaning out all the little crevices that I can't usually reach and looking for any corrosion.
All in all a productive day
(16-04-20, 07:27 PM)Dudeofrude link Wrote: Started stripping mine down to give it a good thorough deep clean and do some light maintenance. Removed the headlight assembly, all the mudgaurds, belly pan, radiator covers etc so they can be washed in the bucket then removed the full exhaust system (studs came off with ease... yearly copper greaseing proving its worth) so now I can give that a good buff and polish. Finally got the lambda sensor out of the downpipes and replaced it with a blanking bolt.
Waiting on the new brake parts to arrive so I can service them. In the meantime I'll be out there with a toothbrush cleaning out all the little crevices that I can't usually reach and looking for any corrosion.
All in all a productive day
What benefit do you get blanking off the Lambda sensor ?
never look down on anyone unless you're helping them up.
(17-04-20, 06:34 PM)unfazed link Wrote: Replaced all the brake lines on the 600 with oem.
Washed and polished the 1000. Must wash and polish the 600 tomorrow if its dry
Dam it I am just about to replace my 22 year old rear brake line --- I could of sold it to you. :pokefun
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(18-04-20, 11:50 AM)coffee link Wrote: What benefit do you get blanking off the Lambda sensor ?
My sensor has been disconnected from the ecu end ever since I fitted the power commander. If not then it interferes with the custom map as it still sends the air fuel ratio back to the ecu which in turn overrides the PC.
I fitted a closed loop plug to the ECU end at the same time I fitted the PC but the exhaust end was partially seized and I couldn't get it out so I just left it as didn't seem to matter.
What I then realised when it came to removing the headers was that I couldnt get them more have 20cms away from the bike as the lambda sensor and cable were still attached.
I'd tried various times to remove it with no joy as the only thing I could get to it with was a 22mm open ended spanner which just wouldnt budge it ?
So this time after trying again I decided to just cut the wire, move the downpipes onto my workbench then grind the sensor in half which allowed me to use a deep socket over the top.
Needless to say that worked perfectly so it was just a case of finding a bolt to fit the old hole. Funnily enough I still had a brand new sump plug (with copper washer) from on of my old 125cc bikes that fit perfectly ?
Bypassed the carb heaters, changed the plugs and gave it an oil change before giving it a quick wash and polish. This is on top of the carb cleaning and balancing done last week.
Just need lockdown to finish so I can get out and ride it now.