New inlet rubber for the carburetors

[His Dudeness]

Yeah report back when you fit them There seems to be a lot of sets on ebay for under £20. Most likely they are all from the same manufacturer. It'll be interesting to see the quality of them compared to the Yamaha ones.

[hopefiendboy]

My future fzs600 I pick up on Thursday also has this problem with cracked rubbers. My initial solution was to just cover up the cracks with liquid gasket high temp silicon but also tempted just to order some of the cheap chinese ones regardless- these perhaps?


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LOPOR-Mo...autifyAB=0


Not seen any cheap ones on ebay but the above seem correct. Unsure of quality but as a replacement for 18yr old ones might just be the ticket...


Paul

[His Dudeness]

My future fzs600 I pick up on Thursday also has this problem with cracked rubbers. My initial solution was to just cover up the cracks with liquid gasket high temp silicon but also tempted just to order some of the cheap chinese ones regardless- these perhaps?


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LOPOR-Mo...autifyAB=0


Not seen any cheap ones on ebay but the above seem correct. Unsure of quality but as a replacement for 18yr old ones might just be the ticket...


Paul

Same ones I'd say https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carburetor-Ma...SwsTdaoif2

The Yamaha ones are thick so cracking on the outside doesn't mean you have to replace them.

[Roky]

I will buy these one


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Carburetor-Intak...q0&vxp=mtr

[fazersharp]

Its a shame you can not just buy the outer two because I am pretty sure that it is UV damage that makes them go hard and crack and the inside ones are sheltered

[Roky]

Its a shame you can not just buy the outer two because I am pretty sure that it is UV damage that makes them go hard and crack and the inside ones are sheltered

Thrust me it is not just UV light. The heat has also a lot to do with rubber degradation, and the bikes are old so there comes a time...to change 
But original parts are just to expensive...

[hopefiendboy]

Yes I hear u about not potentially being a problem but I put a bit of liquid over the outer ones cracks and the fluid disappeared pretty quick so I suspect they are having some effect.
Inner ones also have visual cracks too.


But for 15 quid I'll give it a shot. And yes the cheap e bay ones look the same as the aliexpress ones! Same manufacturer at least.

[psyfi_1]

i got mine on ebar recently for like 60 quid

[adasilva]

My future fzs600 I pick up on Thursday also has this problem with cracked rubbers. My initial solution was to just cover up the cracks with liquid gasket high temp silicon but also tempted just to order some of the cheap chinese ones regardless- these perhaps?


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LOPOR-Mo...autifyAB=0




Not seen any cheap ones on ebay but the above seem correct. Unsure of quality but as a replacement for 18yr old ones might just be the ticket...


Paul

I did that on my ones and did not make any difference. So if they are bad as you said, you might as well not waste your time and change them

I did that on my but it did not make any improvement and basically if they are cracked bad like you said, you might as well not waste your time and change them.

[matt7chunk]

Just ordered some of the 15 quid ones to give a shot , my originals aren't causing me any issues but just visually bad , I'll post my thoughts when they arrive

[redmandan]

So I got my inlet rubbers from China for 15 quid last week. I'm finally at the point of putting them back together so I made a little album and have some info on them.


https://imgur.com/a/F5uKt


In short, I was very happy with them until I was fitting the last one and the post to connect a balancing tool came out.


In long, I started with cylinder 1 on the left of the bike. As per the photos on the eBay ad they do not come with the caps to cover the vacuum gauge connection points, but that's no matter, the ones from my original rubbers are still OK. I did one at a time to try and work out which ones went where. I think there are basically 2 left ones and 2 right ones not necessarily one per each cylinder. They are labelled incorrectly on the rubbers themselves.


I have my carbs off right now so I was able to try them on the carb ends with space to get a good view and they looked pretty decent. I put a bit of engine oil around the engine side, cleaned up the metal of the block with a rag and some solvent and they fitted very well.


Until I got to the last one, for some reason I fitted the vacuum gauge cap and then decided to pull it off again. The whole post came off with it. There is a reasonable chance this will happen with the others as well although I haven't checked them yet. It looks like they are only secured in place with some resin of some sort and this one did not receive a good enough dollop in the right place to hold it in. In comparison to the original Yamaha ones they are also held in with some kind of adhesive resin but it looks much more robust. It's a square evenly placed around the whole post like a machine did it. The Chinese ones just have a dollop like somebody applied it with a syringe.


I cannot try them with the engine running yet as I have just fitted a new cam chain and I'm waiting for a new tensioner gasket.


I'm going to attempt to fix it as I think it might be OK, this is where I ask for some advice, I have to hand fibreglass resin (for boat repairs and whatnot) vulcanizing rubber glue (for bicycle inner tubes) or superglue. What do you guys recommend?

[His Dudeness]

So I got my inlet rubbers from China for 15 quid last week. I'm finally at the point of putting them back together so I made a little album and have some info on them.


https://imgur.com/a/F5uKt


In short, I was very happy with them until I was fitting the last one and the post to connect a balancing tool came out.


In long, I started with cylinder 1 on the left of the bike. As per the photos on the eBay ad they do not come with the caps to cover the vacuum gauge connection points, but that's no matter, the ones from my original rubbers are still OK. I did one at a time to try and work out which ones went where. I think there are basically 2 left ones and 2 right ones not necessarily one per each cylinder. They are labelled incorrectly on the rubbers themselves.


I have my carbs off right now so I was able to try them on the carb ends with space to get a good view and they looked pretty decent. I put a bit of engine oil around the engine side, cleaned up the metal of the block with a rag and some solvent and they fitted very well.


Until I got to the last one, for some reason I fitted the vacuum gauge cap and then decided to pull it off again. The whole post came off with it. There is a reasonable chance this will happen with the others as well although I haven't checked them yet. It looks like they are only secured in place with some resin of some sort and this one did not receive a good enough dollop in the right place to hold it in. In comparison to the original Yamaha ones they are also held in with some kind of adhesive resin but it looks much more robust. It's a square evenly placed around the whole post like a machine did it. The Chinese ones just have a dollop like somebody applied it with a syringe.


I cannot try them with the engine running yet as I have just fitted a new cam chain and I'm waiting for a new tensioner gasket.


I'm going to attempt to fix it as I think it might be OK, this is where I ask for some advice, I have to hand fibreglass resin (for boat repairs and whatnot) vulcanizing rubber glue (for bicycle inner tubes) or superglue. What do you guys recommend?

That's annoying. Seems like the easiest part to get right would be the nipple. How tight is it in the hole? If it's a tight fit normal super glue would probably work. If there's a bit of a gap the vulcanising glue might take up the gap and work better. I think you'll have to do some trial and error.

[Disorderlypunk]

i thought left and right would have been the easiest bit to get right during manufacturing
i am wondering if the inlets are reversable so the post sits at the bottom and if it would make any difference
- i could go and check but after the morning i have had i have hit the cans and will only move to go to the loo
(although i can hear an ice cream van and it is tempting)

[matt7chunk]

Received mine today will maby attempt fitting today if I get time

[focced_off]

Is it not possible to buy a length of SAMCO (silicone) Hose of the correct diameter, then cut 4 correct length pieces to fit?
Might be cheaper that way than a dedicated "kit" for the Fazer? Something like below...

https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performan...icone-hose

[hopefiendboy]

Also received mine the other day- brass inserts all glued in nice and firmly. Just need to pick the bike up now  :'( :b

[His Dudeness]

Is it not possible to buy a length of SAMCO (silicone) Hose of the correct diameter, then cut 4 correct length pieces to fit?
Might be cheaper that way than a dedicated "kit" for the Fazer? Something like below...

https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performan...icone-hose

The manifolds bolt flat against the engine so I don't think a hose would work

[Disorderlypunk]

also not all silicone hose is fuel resistant it needs a fluorosilicone or fluorocarbon lining
- i found this out after i bought a bike and the lad had replaced all the hoses with silicone (looked good)
yep 5 mins down the road we got a really strong smell of fuel coming from the back of the van thank god we weren't smoking as the fuel line had started to perish and during transit split wide open

[Roky]

I removed the carb yesterday and to my surprise the joint rubber which connects the carb and enginr block are not cracked trough. Not a single one. They all have cracks on the surface, bot not one crack goes trough. So there could not be any air going in the mix trough rubber.

[celticdog]

Here's the rub, the carbs on the fzs 600 are now heading for being 20 years old. To put it bluntly, they're getting focced. It may be that replacing the inlet rubbers is not the answer.
There are plenty of used carbs on ebay, some will be usable, some not. Either way if they've done the mileage on a 20 year old bike they're going to require some attention.
Brass tarnishes over the years and rubber perishes over time too; in an environment of petroleum mist and any fine particulates that get past your filters it's no surprise if your throttle response
isn't great when you put the bike under load. In the past I've changed the plugs, plug caps, TPS, air and fuel filters, and cleaned the airbox till it gleams all to no avail. Turns out as I use the bike for commuting
in all weathers, I was getting a bit of water leakage through the petrol cap, once I replaced this things were better but not perfect. The bike runs better in good weather! Anyway my point is the carbs need cleaned and balanced regularly and in some cases it's worth replacing the O rings and other bits as required. Just my tuppence