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what did you do with your fazer today ?
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(17-11-17, 10:01 PM)unfazed link Wrote: No




Eerrrr! You don't want to phone a friend then.
Or time to consider?
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Any advice from anyone who has a contribution will be gratefully received.

Rear Pad recommendation for a FZS 1000 Gen 1 Blue Spot rear caliper.
There seems to be so many different types of materials, each advert you read seems to be claiming theirs are Superior for stopping power, minimum disc wear, minimum dusting and longevity.
Now it seems to me that some must be in error, or its all bullshit, as you can not have two or more absolute truths about one thing, either one is better or they are the same.
The word SUPERIOR infers that their product is better (Wot all of them)   
I found these on eGay and wondered what you thought, suggestions welcome but not on where to shove them, thanking you in anticipation for you wisdom and knowledge.

(More bullshit)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-DELTA-M1-...SwAVxZwlb8
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(17-11-17, 11:41 PM)tommyardin link Wrote: [quote author=unfazed link=topic=6412.msg271324#msg271324 date=1510952496]
No

[size=1em]Eerrrr! You don't want to phone a friend then.[/size]
[size=1em]Or time to consider?[/size]
[/quote]
No
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Organic is the recommended option for the 600 and will be fine, some riders prefer the HH type, but these are more suitable for heavier bikes like the FZS1000. The HH will lock the rear quicker then the organice ones under the same applied pressure.

In the end it is a personal choice.

The oem Fzs600 caliper and the Fzs1000 caliper have the same piston size and the only advantage of the Fzs1000 caliper other than aesthetics is that it is far less prone to seizing as the water and/or salt laden water will drain out better since there are no holes in the bottom to clog up like there is in the 600 caliper.
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MOT 8.30 this morning for the 600 , got about 45 mins for a quick once over , rear tyres a bit low so might dig out my spare wheel and tyre......nothing like a last minute rush    :rolleyes
One, is never going to be enough.....
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Another year , another pass  Big Grin    think thats 15 years of straight passes without advisories  :thumbup




:o  letting the side down here , only 1530 miles since last MOT  :o ......


i did sort my spare wheel and tyre out which has excellent tread and a better tyre , in a rush this morning i soon had the rear wheel out  ,new one has a good wavy disc on it so swapped the sprocket and cush drive rubbers over and offered the wheel up ,  thats when I noticed the lack of wheel bearings  :o ........****  old one back in measure tread , got about 1.5 mm but looks a lot less.....just a mile to my local station that ive been using for many years , mentioned the tyre before the test and he was fine with it.....


the down side of not using It much over the last year , it ran a bit lumpy on the way home , running on 3.5 cylinders below 4000 rpm , suspect blocked pilot jet on one of the carbs , with the thou on sorn ,2 of my other bikes wanting MOT, s and another in bits thats put me off the road untill i have time to fiddle , will give it a service at the same time    Wink
One, is never going to be enough.....
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fitted a new choke cable old one had snapped in the middle  ,although since mike did the full monty most of the year I don't need the choke but now its dropped really cold in the mornings if it doesn't catch first time it did struggle to start without a wiff of choke. :thumbup
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Put new chain and sprocketas on , but still makes a noise  Sad
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(18-11-17, 09:27 PM)Davetoz link Wrote: Put new chain and sprocketas on , but still makes a noise  Sad


Check wheel alignment also ensure you do not have the chain to tight.


Put the bike on the centre stand turn the back wheel until the tightest part of the chain run is at the bottom centre of the chain run. Do this by pushing the bottom run of the chain upwards as you slowly rotate the wheel you will find the tightest point (the point where you can move it upwards the least) at this point push the chain upwards hard and you should be able to touch the chain on the bottom part of the black plastic chain guide attached to the underside of the swinging arm. If you can not get the chain to touch the guide slacken the wheel and move it slightly forward until it does.


If it hits the guide and still has a lot of slack then it is too loose so do the opposite and tighten the chain by moving the rear wheel backwards.
Pay attention to wheel alignment (Alignment marks on rear of the swinging arm by the wheel spindle) as a chain pulling out of line with the front sprocket will cause a lot of noise and could end up shagging the gearbox bearings.


Good luck and welcome to the Foccing madhouse.
tommyarding     
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Fitted new front footrest rubbers on the 'winter' 600. I had to drill one of the screws out, but all done now. Ordered a new exhaust hanger.
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(18-11-17, 10:54 AM)red98 link Wrote: Another year , another pass  Big Grin    think thats 15 years of straight passes without advisories  :thumbup




:o  letting the side down here , only 1530 miles since last MOT  :o ......


i did sort my spare wheel and tyre out which has excellent tread and a better tyre , in a rush this morning i soon had the rear wheel out  ,new one has a good wavy disc on it so swapped the sprocket and cush drive rubbers over and offered the wheel up ,  thats when I noticed the lack of wheel bearings  :o ........****  old one back in measure tread , got about 1.5 mm but looks a lot less.....just a mile to my local station that ive been using for many years , mentioned the tyre before the test and he was fine with it.....


the down side of not using It much over the last year , it ran a bit lumpy on the way home , running on 3.5 cylinders below 4000 rpm , suspect blocked pilot jet on one of the carbs , with the thou on sorn ,2 of my other bikes wanting MOT, s and another in bits thats put me off the road untill i have time to fiddle , will give it a service at the same time    Wink










update......day off today so had a look at the 600 , start with the easy things , plugs out and check for spark , all sparking but a little weak , sorted out a spare set , fitted and started well with a nice even tick over  :thumbup .........took it for a nice long test ride and once more its riding / running well    Smile




Good day for a ride , probs done 60 ish miles  , all the gear on inc zip in thermals and no problem with cold , sun even came out for a while.......got to take advantage of the odd good day at this time of year    Smile
One, is never going to be enough.....
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Ordered new R-Clips from eGay for the replacement rear Blue Spot caliper that will be going on in the next 2 or 4 weeks. Size 1 mm X 20 mm.


[size=1em]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R-Clip-Stainl...2749.l2649[/size]
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Are the R clips blue. :lol
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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(26-11-17, 06:38 PM)robbo link Wrote: Are the R clips blue. :lol
Must be, that’s why they’re taking so long to arrive  :rollin
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Thought you would like to see the new bleed screw dust covers  :lol :rolleyes


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Blue does seem quite a prevalent colour in my life  :lol 
But some things are just meant to be Silver  :b


Check the bleed screw dust caps out on the Fazer :rolleyes


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Nothing in life should be BROWN


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A bit of advice though guys, do you need the Fazer Gen1 1000 hanger and stay bar to fit the Blue spot caliper to the FZS 600?
I have both the hanger and the stay bar


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