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what did you do with your fazer today ?
:thumbup  Cheers Sharpie  :rolleyes  You Racing Snake You  :lol         
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(13-01-17, 04:25 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock
The trouble with dry lube(graphite) is it leaves a residue and the more you apply the more it will build up.
MT-09 Tracer for those who no longer can handle a BIG boy Fazer
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(14-01-17, 01:28 AM)lew600fazer link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=6412.msg249810#msg249810 date=1484321118]
Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock
The trouble with dry lube(graphite) is it leaves a residue and the more you apply the more it will build up.
[/quote]


Thats what I have always thought, I just use 3 in 1 oil.
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Here is an addition to my earlier post about my Ignition Lock/Switch.


I found that pulling slightly backwards towards the fuel tank really eased the situation of the key snagging in the lock that was stopping it turning. IE: I could not switch the ignition on/off, or, take the steering lock off/off.


Well today mooching about in my man cave I found the very old spare ignition key that I was given when I purchased the bike 4 years ago, this key has never ever managed to unlock the steering lock ever since I had the FZS.
I tried it today using the method above, slight pressure towards the fuel tank and 'BINGO' it works every time although I can see that the key is really worn lots of brass colour showing through the original sliver colour, and, comparing it to my current key it looks really worn, but it works faultlessly, so I have an extra spare now for emergency emergencies.
:lol     


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I have always if having two keys alternately used them so everything wears the same.
I wonder if pulling towards the tank and getting better results has something to do with having to reach over the bars to turn the ignition which means that you are always turning the key from a set point and to pull to the tank is not the normal strain direction
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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(15-01-17, 05:55 PM)tommyardin link Wrote: Here is an addition to my earlier post about my Ignition Lock/Switch.


I found that pulling slightly backwards towards the fuel tank really eased the situation of the key snagging in the lock that was stopping it turning. IE: I could not switch the ignition on/off, or, take the steering lock off/off.


Well today mooching about in my man cave I found the very old spare ignition key that I was given when I purchased the bike 4 years ago, this key has never ever managed to unlock the steering lock ever since I had the FZS.
I tried it today using the method above, slight pressure towards the fuel tank and 'BINGO' it works every time although I can see that the key is really worn lots of brass colour showing through the original sliver colour, and, comparing it to my current key it looks really worn, but it works faultlessly, so I have an extra spare now for emergency emergencies.
:lol     
(15-01-17, 09:43 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: I have always if having two keys alternately used them so everything wears the same.
I wonder if pulling towards the tank and getting better results has something to do with having to reach over the bars to turn the ignition which means that you are always turning the key from a set point and to pull to the tank is not the normal strain direction


I've the same problem with my key but for me it's best to push the key slightly forwards towards the clocks that does the trick  Wink
Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.
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With regard to the two above posts:
I think by applying the opposite direction of the normal unlocking pressure/direction seems to work,
I know when I reach forward to turn the key, forward is my pressure direction and I guess that is the way the lock and key wear, by pulling the key gently back towards the tank whilst turning it seems to have given the key/lock a new lease of life.
I guess its the exact opposite for others, perhaps their natural pressure direction is to pull the key slightly back when turning it so that is the way their system wears.


Anyway it's a result and long may it continue.
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(15-01-17, 09:43 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: I have always if having two keys alternately used them so everything wears the same.
I wonder if pulling towards the tank and getting better results has something to do with having to reach over the bars to turn the ignition which means that you are always turning the key from a set point and to pull to the tank is not the normal strain direction


Yeah Sharpie, I have two good keys, so I think I will do exactly that and use alternate keys to spread the wear out between them, but, what I will do is get another cut from the best of the two first so I have a pretty much original as a pattern for the future. :thumbup
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Actually checked my tyre pressure for the first time since November (I know, I know, check them every week) and found to my amazement that I have been running with only 35psi in the rear and 28psi in the front ???
So now they are back to 42/36 and the bike actually handles again haha
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If you do it often you can actually get an idea by "feeling" them which is far quicker than fafing on your hands and knees fiddling with a gauge whilst also letting half the air out and loosing the dust cap. Im not saying you can tell the pressure but you can feel if it seems low.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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took bike for service today got call saying plug sheared off in head :\  might be cheaper to buy engine than to repair??
MY GRANDAD TOLD ME -WHAT DOESNT KILL YOU MAKES YOU STRONGER--EXCEPT FOR A BEAR THAT WILL DEFINATELY KILL YOU---
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(17-01-17, 02:34 PM)Dinger1962 link Wrote: took bike for service today got call [size=1.35em]saying plug sheared off in head[/size] :\  might be cheaper to buy engine than to repair??


So the garage sheared the plug off and say it would be cheaper to get a new lump? WTF don't they have any responsibility for shearing it off. :foc


If you went to the dentist and he broke a tooth while working on your gob he would be responsible for it.



So are your saying that it is down to you because they focced up your bike.


I would be all over them like a rash if they did that to me  :grumble 


[color=rgb(0, 0, 255)]saying plug sheared off in head [/color][size=1em]my arse, they sheared it off. It is just that sort of terminology pisses me off, saying the plug sheared off in the head, they fucked up, if in any doubt about something like that, you can feel if something is really really tight, back away from it and give it a moments thought or maybe a squirt of plus gas or release agent.[/size]

[size=1em]Good luck with that mate, but I would fight them all the way on that one.[/size]
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Here's another thought I wonder if the bastards used a windy gun on it?


I feel cross about that and it not even my bike FFS
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(17-01-17, 03:07 PM)tommyardin link Wrote: [quote author=Dinger1962 link=topic=6412.msg250140#msg250140 date=1484660086]
took bike for service today got call [size=1.35em]saying plug sheared off in head[/size] :\  might be cheaper to buy engine than to repair??


So the garage sheared the plug off and say it would be cheaper to get a new lump? WTF don't they have any responsibility for shearing it off. :foc


If you went to the dentist and he broke a tooth while working on your gob he would be responsible for it.



So are your saying that it is down to you because they focced up your bike.


I would be all over them like a rash if they did that to me  :grumble 


[color=rgb(0, 0, 255)]saying plug sheared off in head [/color][size=1em]my arse, they sheared it off. It is just that sort of terminology pisses me off, saying the plug sheared off in the head, they fucked up, if in any doubt about something like that, you can feel if something is really really tight, back away from it and give it a moments thought or maybe a squirt of plus gas or release agent.[/size]

[size=1em]Good luck with that mate, but I would fight them all the way on that one.[/size]
[/quote]

My thoughts exactly tommyardin, they Fucked it they Fix it. Complete Assholes!

(17-01-17, 03:18 PM)tommyardin link Wrote: Here's another thought I wonder if the bastards used a windy gun on it?


I feel cross about that and it not even my bike FFS

Thinking about it 'how the fuck can you shear a plug' unless like you say they used a windy gun and had it on full wack and in the wrong direcion.

Do all the tools in that garage have 'righty tighty, lefty lucy' on them and the tool they happened to use have it rubbed off causing them to guess the direction  :lol
RIP my beautiful red beast 1999 to 2017 ???
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Just order these Bad Boys off EvilBay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281751005677?_...EBIDX%3AIT


A quick trim of the HT leads to get back to virgin lead and Jobs-a-Gudun.


:guitar I hope




See above post IE: The NGK plug leads that I purchased on evilBay,  [color=rgb(255, 0, 0)]Don't Buy them, [/color][/size]mine were delivered today and although they are really good quality the body length is not long enough to reach over the camshaft covers, so no good to the Fazer FZS600. See picture.Back to the drawing board. [size=xx-large]


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(17-01-17, 02:34 PM)Dinger1962 link Wrote: took bike for service today got call saying plug sheared off in head :\  might be cheaper to buy engine than to repair??
It shouldn't be cheaper to replace than repair it, and it shouldn't be costing you anything!
As Tommy, and others have said, I'd be insisting that they fix it seeing as they broke it, cheeky sods!  :rolleyes
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(17-01-17, 07:54 PM)Freck link Wrote: [quote author=Dinger1962 link=topic=6412.msg250140#msg250140 date=1484660086]
took bike for service today got call saying plug sheared off in head :\  might be cheaper to buy engine than to repair??
It shouldn't be cheaper to replace than repair it, and it shouldn't be costing you anything!
As Tommy, and others have said, I'd be insisting that they fix it seeing as they broke it, cheeky sods!  :rolleyes
[/quote]


I'm with everyone else on this, they're trying to shaft you good style Dinger.


Can you name and shame this outfit on the forum for us please?


Sometimes a good online public Sherricking is the only way to get satisfaction out of a business.

Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.
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Hi fellas thanks for your input i feel i should explain a little clearer--here goes i bought the bike in the autumn fairly cheap as it was advertised spares or repair due to misfire--finally got round to having a look at bike couple of weeks ago fired it up ran great no missfire took out for a quick blast great but missfire returned--left for couple of days same again-as we havin mild winter i decided totake it to garage let them diagnose problem and repair-rode bike there explained fault asked for service while it was there just then missfire started --left it with them half hour later got call to say no 2 plug sheared in head--they said would be expensive fix -i was gutted cos when it went it went well-anyhow they didnt charge me-- i cant prove they broke  plug as it looks like it been like that for a while and as i had never checked them previously myself no argument was forthcoming as they are usually prety good but was suprised at estimate for repair--so- collected bike and trailered down to a smaller biker friendly workshop who checked out job and if he can get clear acces to offending plug remains he should be able to remove it --tomorrow ill remove tank and harness junction box and wiring hopefully that will be enough to allow access--am i just living in hope --has anyone any experience can it be done or not ??
MY GRANDAD TOLD ME -WHAT DOESNT KILL YOU MAKES YOU STRONGER--EXCEPT FOR A BEAR THAT WILL DEFINATELY KILL YOU---
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(17-01-17, 08:48 PM)Dinger1962 link Wrote: Hi fellas thanks for your input i feel i should explain a little clearer--here goes i bought the bike in the autumn fairly cheap as it was advertised spares or repair due to misfire--finally got round to having a look at bike couple of weeks ago fired it up ran great no missfire took out for a quick blast great but missfire returned--left for couple of days same again-as we havin mild winter i decided totake it to garage let them diagnose problem and repair-rode bike there explained fault asked for service while it was there just then missfire started --left it with them half hour later got call to say no 2 plug sheared in head--they said would be expensive fix -i was gutted cos when it went it went well-anyhow they didnt charge me-- i cant prove they broke  plug as it looks like it been like that for a while and as i had never checked them previously myself no argument was forthcoming as they are usually prety good but was suprised at estimate for repair--so- collected bike and trailered down to a smaller biker friendly workshop who checked out job and if he can get clear acces to offending plug remains he should be able to remove it --tomorrow ill remove tank and harness junction box and wiring hopefully that will be enough to allow access--am i just living in hope --has anyone any experience can it be done or not ??


Ah, so a little more info now  :lol
You bought the bike cheap with a misfire and the garage have had a look for you and found you've bought a lemon  :lol
Well, pretty much anything is repairable so I wouldn't worry too much. Hopefully you won't lose out too much. I've seen cylinder heads on eBay  Smile

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If they can remove the cylinder head then it should be possible to remove the remains of the old plug. if threads damaged then a Helicoil insert would be cheaper than replacement head. Tip: Always put a little copper grease on threads of new plugs & DONT overtighten! Good luck!
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