OK so not a great start to receiving the bike. Despite the bloke telling me it had a new battery its failed to start, I can only assets he'd had it on charge when I went to view it. Now its sat in my garage and the battery is as flat as a fart( I viewed and started it on Tuesday) so one can safely assume the battery is knackered. Any recommendations on a new battery as I need this bike to start on the click of a button and I don't want to be pissing round when it comes round to commuting in a few weeks.
12-01-17, 02:56 PM (This post was last modified: 12-01-17, 02:59 PM by tommyardin.)
(11-01-17, 09:51 AM)Dave48 link Wrote: [quote author=tommyardin link=topic=21649.msg249611#msg249611 date=1484121670]
The voice of reason. I always, wrongly as it seems, think that anything bought directly from Yamaha is going to cost ten times as much from elsewhere. I guess as it is/was a Yamaha factory agency free repair the parts are still going to be subsidised, hence the reasonable price.
Thanks for posting :thumbup :thumbup
There arent many things cheaper from Yamaha than ebay alternatives-in fact if anyone knows of anything else I would like to know(being an old scrooge pensioner type! :lol )
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With saying that though Dave the upgrade sprocket/washer set I bought was sold through eBay but was in fact a genuine Yamaha part/parts.
Not 100% sure if this was the Tab Washer package or the 12mm Nut package
Shame about the dud. Sounds like he's had the bike stored for some time. You might want to check over a few other things before you rely on it daily.
Personally my Varta has lasted me 5 years without problem, although I do put it on charge regularly. Make sure you get the right model. Thundercat and FZS1000 batteries are not suitable. The Yuasa is YT12B-BS
I phoned the previous owner straight back and he has very kindly offered to buy a replacement battery, can't say fairer than that. I just hope there are no more gremlins hiding in the bike, at 13212 miles I would hope not and it has just had a MOT today with no advisories.
Not sure about the Ignition switch on the 1K Fazers but on the FZS600 2002-2003 there is a ignition position that will allow you to remove the ignition key and leave the side lights on, it might be worth trying to charge the existing battery over night to see if this has whats happened and flattened the battery, could save you a few quid if that is what happened.
Cheers Tommy, the previous owner has very kindly to provide a new battery so I think he knows he has stiffed me over this one, hence me getting straight onto the phone with him
Talking about the ignition switch on the Fazer FZS 600, which we weren't.
I have noticed of late that my key is becoming more and more difficult to turn, sometimes having to wiggle it in the lock for 5 or 10 seconds before it relinquishes it hold.
So Iv'e been on EvilBay trying to find a replacement, and there are lots on there for the 1998, 1999, 2000 and some for the 2001 model by nothing definitely for the 2002-2003 Foxeye model.
One buyer I looked at said that their lock fits all the FZS 600's from 1998 to 2003.
Does anyone have any info that they can share on this?
One other thing is that I start the old girl up every 3 or 4 days and let her run until hot/warm (10-12 minutes)
Starting process this time of year, 1/4 to 1/3rd choke, I do not touch the throttle quick dab on the starter button and it bursts into life and she is running smooth,instantly, 45 seconds and roll the choke completely off. Jobs a Gud-Un.
Today I went out to the shed went through the usual process 1/4 to 1/3rd choke, throttle a no-go zone as usual, quick dab on the starter button she burst into life but then faultered and stopped, dab number 2 on the button she burst into life again and ran OK!!! but did not sound quite right, 3 down pipes warm, 1 down pipe cold, second one in from the throttle/front brake lever side of the bike is cold, whilst kneeling down burning my fingers on 3 of the pipes I noticed a faint ticking noise from under the fuel tank, I'm suspecting I have an HT breakdown on that plug/lead. A couple of blips on the throttle had the bike running with it's usual dulcet tones, and then I burnt my finger on the offending down pipe.
The ignition key and the misfire I am convinced are not related.
I have read and sympathised with Darssi's issues with his recent misfire and failure on the startup front, Tank off tomorrow and remove all the caps, clip HT leads by 10mm and reattach all the plug caps/suppressors. I feel fairly confident this will cure that problem because of that electrical ticking noise I heard, and, the fact that when that ticking stopped I pretty much instantly burned my fingers again on the other down pipe.
So as requested earlier any advice on the ignition switch/lock would be much appreciated, attached is a link of the ones on EvilBay
(12-01-17, 04:02 PM)darrenc link Wrote: Cheers Tommy, the previous owner has very kindly to provide a new battery so I think he knows he has stiffed me over this one, hence me getting straight onto the phone with him
Great that's what we all like a positive result :thumbup
Well I've learnt 3 things this evening, 1. It is the battery that's fucked, 2. I need to by the uprated sprocket but as the old one is on (luckily its tight with no play) and 3. I need to find my winter gloves, feck me its coldcout, only did about 2 miles and can't feel my fingers, face, legs, balls. Best get winter clothes shopping. Any recommendations for decent winter gear?
(12-01-17, 10:30 PM)darrenc link Wrote: Well I've learnt 3 things this evening, 1. It is the battery that's fucked, 2. I need to by the uprated sprocket but as the old one is on (luckily its tight with no play) and 3. I need to find my winter gloves, feck me its coldcout, only did about 2 miles and can't feel my fingers, face, legs, balls. Best get winter clothes shopping. Any recommendations for decent winter gear?
Yep put on a nice 2 door sports car until the end of Arpil, then get on the Fazer.
Another quick question, after taking the front sprocket casing off I could see there was a gasket around this casing and it was knackered, dies anyone know the name or part number of this so I can purchase another. Cheers
(12-01-17, 10:49 PM)darrenc link Wrote: Another quick question, after taking the front sprocket casing off I could see there was a gasket around this casing and it was knackered, dies anyone know the name or part number of this so I can purchase another. Cheers
Hi Darren my FZS 600 has never since I owned it had a gasket in the joint its is not an enclosure of any sort and of course it is open ended both bottom and back for chain access/exit why would you need a paper gasket here?
I'm only asking because there was already a gasket in place so weren't sure if if needed one or not, maybe just so it seats tightly and stops vibrations of the Allen key bolts coming loose??? I know the gasket serves no purpose in terms of stopping stuff getting in/out with it being open ended. I have some liquid gasket seal, might just clean it all up take the old knackered gasket out and pop some of that on
Robbo picked up a fleabay bargain, for the full alpinestars Andes suit for £92 (second hand of course but like new) just need some decent gloves now, the Richa cold protect gtx get some good reviews and are reasonable price so might have to invest in them
You've had a touch there Darren , well done. If you're new bike is going to be a regular commuter, I'd go for heated grips and bar muffs. I know the muffs score zero on street cred, but having been at this motorbike lark for a real long time, they do work and save having to use thicker winter gloves. You can fit or remove them in 10 minutes. For heated grips Dr. Bike for cheap reliable and cheerful, or Oxford if more sophisticated are needed. Some muffs and the Dr.Bikes would be cheaper than a decent pair of winter gloves. Well done again on the suit. :thumbup
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
