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Rear wheel turning in neutral ?
#21


No slimwilly, if Graham and I were suffering the same symptoms then the bike would creep forward when at a standstill in first with the clutch lever pulled in to the handle bar, whether the oil is warm or not. I was just about able to hold the bike still on flat tarmac with the clutch pulled all the way in and both feet planted and legs braced against forward movement.


Even if you were correct, it's no good a clutch not working until the engine has warmed!
is it clean enough?
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#22
[size=1em]Slip and Drag are at the complete opposite end of the scales, but, both make riding almost impossible, slip is either a maladjusted clutch or cable, worn out friction plates (Most recommend changing friction and plain steel plates together) or shagged pressure springs (Not often that though, as the don't normally get hot enough running in oil to lose their tempering) Dry clutch springs can.[/size]

[size=1em]Drag can be caused by buckled or heat warped steel plates (Can also cause slip) burred tabs/lugs on both plain and friction plates, knackered grooves/flutes in the basket and/or clutch centre/hub, but not oil drag causing the bike to creep you should be able to stop a rear wheel turning on tickover with a bare hand if it is spinning because of oil drag, even if the oil is cold.[/size]

[size=1em]Not wanting to sound argumentative, but any welding sounds pretty bloody final for the clutch, if it ever needs to be removed or parts replaced, unless of course it is a widely known and used fix in the forum, but I would shy away from a welder personally. [/size]

[size=1em]A complete new clutch assembly cost a shed full of dosh, but there are a few Second Hand on eBay right now for £100 or less, but as you know you pays yer money and you takes yer chances, but if they have been taken out of a crash doner bike the chances are they are much better than yours.[/size]

[size=1em]I wish you well with the repair as summer is officially on its way and I have it on good authority (My arthritic wrist joint is beginning to feel a little easier) [/size]
Any way Graham you still have the 600, that will put a huge smile on your face Big Grin  <<<<< there you go I told you it would
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#23
There is another possible issue which can cause similar issues. This is more common on the earlier R1s than the fazer, but there has been a few incidents of it on the fazers. I have come across it on three R1s. The cap, at the end of the shaft the clutch basket  is on (see Picture) can pop out causing drag and difficulty in selecting neutral. When the cap fall out it is usually held with the clutch basket and does not do any damage  other than an annoying rattle especially at idle and just above. Once the engine is revving higher centrifugal force keeps the cap from rattling. All the oil is pushed out the end of the shaft instead of through the shaft the transmission too dry to operate correctly and the clutch too wet causing the oil drag to be worse then normal.
Remove the clutch cover and the check if the hole at the end of the shaft is block or not. A phillips screwdriver will do to check. If it goes in more than a few mm then the cap has fallen out.
Remove the the clutch plate cover and the clutch plates, the cap should be in the boss. Bang it back in a to a dept of over 5 mm and put it back together.



Attached Files
.jpg   Clutch Shaft Cap.JPG (Size: 45.84 KB / Downloads: 70)
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#24
There, sounds very plausible and quite a quick fix to ,not going to find cheaper fix either.
W/D Unfazed  :thumbup


Keep us informed Graham
 
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#25
It actually sounds the most plausible as it didn't occur gradually it was fine one day then not so fingers, toeseys and everything else crossed.
All I need now is better weather as my workshop is my front garden.
Thanks for all replies and as tommy said W/D unfazed I just wish the 600 was on the road but she's asleep for winter  :\
As soon as I've checked I'll post up , hopefully with a big yahoo as what unfazed put really makes sense  :think
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#26
Buy a  a new clutch cover gasket before you start the job.  :thumbup
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#27
Thanks unfazed , I went and picked one up at my local stealer today  :thumbup
Fingers crossed for some dry weather
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#28
(09-01-17, 05:49 PM)Graham53 link Wrote: Thanks unfazed , I went and picked one up at my local stealer today  :thumbup
Fingers crossed for some dry weather

Don't look at the weather report then ?? apparently it's snowing and minus temps from Friday onwards ??? ya might wanna get it in your front room haha
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#29
The mrs won't let me  :'(
I have thought about it , planned it , worked it all out even built a ramp to get it up the front step but she said no
I thought she might give in as in her defence she is pretty easy going she must be she's put up with me for 11 years , I even said I'd buy a new carpet and decorate the front room after but surprisingly she still said no
I'm weighing up at the moment which one I love the most bike or wife :rolleyes
As there is the possibility that if I surprise her with it my sex life will be over and she with have my testicles as ear rings  :eek
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#30
Just wait till she nips out......... That's what I did ??
As for a sex life, there's plenty of good porn out there these days and besides the fazer let's you ride her whenever you like haha


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#31

hmmmm you've got me tempted now  Big Grin
Spanners , you porn , Kleenex
All I need to do is take some brave pills

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#32
(08-01-17, 09:46 PM)unfazed link Wrote: There is another possible issue which can cause similar issues. This is more common on the earlier R1s than the fazer, but there has been a few incidents of it on the fazers. I have come across it on three R1s. The cap, at the end of the shaft the clutch basket  is on (see Picture) can pop out causing drag and difficulty in selecting neutral. When the cap fall out it is usually held with the clutch basket and does not do any damage  other than an annoying rattle especially at idle and just above. Once the engine is revving higher centrifugal force keeps the cap from rattling. All the oil is pushed out the end of the shaft instead of through the shaft the transmission too dry to operate correctly and the clutch too wet causing the oil drag to be worse then normal.
Remove the clutch cover and the check if the hole at the end of the shaft is block or not. A phillips screwdriver will do to check. If it goes in more than a few mm then the cap has fallen out.
Remove the the clutch plate cover and the clutch plates, the cap should be in the boss. Bang it back in a to a dept of over 5 mm and put it back together.
That's one of the most helpful and concise replies to a help thread I have ever read! Nicely done mate
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#33
(09-01-17, 06:08 PM)Graham53 link Wrote: She with have my testicles as ear rings  :eek


I wonder what she will wear to go with them. :rolleyes
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