When adding electrical bits to the bike. I understand that things with a particularly high current draw often need to be wired directly to the battery, sometimes via a relay (heated grips, a loud horn for example).
Is there somewhere else I can wire this in rather than having a big stack of connectors screwed into the battery terminals?
My bike already has spotlights and a cigarette lighter connection attached and now I'm considering fitting a loud horn. It's not going to look good.
Heated grips don't draw a high current. I connect mine to the rear brake light switch. Doing this I know I can access it easily to connect it, the fuse on that circuit is up to the job and it is definitely off when I turn the key off.
One relay that is connected directly tobattery side of starter relay and all the extra ancillaries connected to it. Relay control wire connected to rear brake switch feed that way no extra current through bike wiring and everything switches off with the ignition and no spare wires to connect to battery
Run a relay from live side of starter relay but switch it using a live from say the sidestand circuit, that way when the bike is off your relay will be open.
Simples
Prob the best way is to run an aux fuse box I had a centech AP 1 on my BMW GS ran extra lights,sat nav,USB socket,plus spare space ready for something else very easy to wire in
I just bought a couple of fuse taps from Ebay for my 12V USB and Heated grips and stuck them in 2 of the ignition fuses - I think the headlights and sidelights. Took about 2 mins to install.
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines...
(04-10-16, 01:24 PM)Buzz link Wrote: I just bought a couple of fuse taps from Ebay for my 12V USB and Heated grips and stuck them in 2 of the ignition fuses - I think the headlights and sidelights. Took about 2 mins to install.
I think I previously mentioned that I'm rubbish with electrics...
So if you have 2 wires coming from whatever it is you want to install (like heated grips for example). The fuse tap gives you one connector... and where do you attach the second wire?
Does wiring direct to the battery put less strain on the regulator/rectifier?
Or I that not relevant?
When I got my bike the reg/rec was already knackered. I replaced it and removed the spotlights the previous owner had fitted, as a result I'm always a bit nervous adding new bits.
(04-10-16, 08:12 PM)Frosties link Wrote: [quote author=Buzz link=topic=21167.msg243049#msg243049 date=1475583872]
I just bought a couple of fuse taps from Ebay for my 12V USB and Heated grips and stuck them in 2 of the ignition fuses - I think the headlights and sidelights. Took about 2 mins to install.
Nice one Tiger,
Just been and ordered 2 packs of 2 Fuse Taps on FleaBay (followed your link) I don't especially have any use right now but can see a lot of potential in them bad boys.
always room in the tool box for them. :thumbup
I wired my Cree projector spots into the headlight wiring circuit after the headlight switch as I always have them on when riding even in day time, but when i get the taps through I will alter that cos it gives protection to each circuit separately, if one fuse then blows at night I will still have either the projectors on or the headlights, Ahh! rethinking that it would mean another switch to switch on and rewire as right now the spots come on when I switch the headlights on.
Who's stupid idea was it to buy fuse taps? Doh :'(
(04-10-16, 11:24 PM)Bretty link Wrote: I think I previously mentioned that I'm rubbish with electrics...
So if you have 2 wires coming from whatever it is you want to install (like heated grips for example). The fuse tap gives you one connector... and where do you attach the second wire?
Does wiring direct to the battery put less strain on the regulator/rectifier?
Or I that not relevant?
When I got my bike the reg/rec was already knackered. I replaced it and removed the spotlights the previous owner had fitted, as a result I'm always a bit nervous adding new bits.
Hiya Bretty, the idea of the fuse tap is you pick a fuse which is live when the ignition is on, say the headlights. Remove the fuse and replace with the fuse tap - the fuse you removed now goes back into the bottom fuse holder in the picture of the Ebay link.
What you now have is a 2nd available fused circuit (red lead with blue crimp) which you can use to feed heated grips and will also turn off when the ignition is off.
If unsure then shout and will try to word it differently or maybe someone can post a pic of a tap they have fitted.
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
06-10-16, 10:53 AM (This post was last modified: 06-10-16, 01:58 PM by Bretty.)
The thing I don't get... A battery has 2 terminals to connect to.
A fuse tap gives you one terminal, so where do you wire the other end of whatever it is you're trying to install?
(06-10-16, 10:53 AM)Bretty link Wrote: The thing I don't get... A battery has 2 terminals to connect to.
A fuse tap gives you one terminal, so where do you wore the other end of whatever it is you're trying to install?
Take the live to what ever you are running then earth to the chassis using a ring terminal. Anything near the headstock the rectifier bracket would be easy enough to reach without wires hanging all over the place or the bracket for coils/fuel pump, just scrape off some paint to make sure you have a good earth
[size=1em]Ground the neural side of the equipment down to any convenient point on the Frame (The whole of the Bikes metal structure is the Neutral side of the circuit) or handlebars, as long as they are not rubber mounted for vibration absorption.[/size]
[size=1em]Takes a bit of getting your head around if you are unfamiliar with electrics (My Dad was a Sparky for British Aerospace) I worked with him sometimes on private jobs that he did, I was his bitch :lol ) [/size]
[size=1em]People talk about the 'Earth' wire on their bikes but in fact it is actually the neutral/negative (-)[/size]
[size=1em]Domestic wiring has three conductors or wires, Live/Neutral and Earth. Auto wiring systems have only two conductors or wires as there is no need for an 'Earth' A 12volt auto circuit offers no risk to life. [/size]
[size=1em]Plus an Earth wire going to ground sort of limits how far you can travel, plus you would have to go back home the same way to wind up your Earth wire. :rolleyes [/size]
[size=1em]That's not to say that 12 volts can not give you a poke, try grabbing hold of a cattle electric fence, but then we are talking about an energizer being inline converting 12 volts to 10,000 volts or more.[/size]
[size=1em]Plus the spark plug circuit can give you a poke and that is generated from a 12 volt system producing 12,000 - 45,000 volts at the plug tip.[/size]
[size=1em]The biggest use of power on your Fazer is probably main-beam with the associated other lights that accompany them, but then you only talking about 12 amps @12 -14.8 Volts.[/size]
[size=1em]Now shut the Foc up Ardin and post the pictures that you originally came on here to post. :finger [/size]
[size=1em]Fused taps arrived today from FleaBay.[/size]
[size=1em]Woo Woo check out them Bad Boys [/size] :eek
![[Image: 73897.jpg]](http://www.wiringproducts.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/73897.jpg)
