(26-05-16, 08:30 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: [quote author=AyJay link=topic=20136.msg232938#msg232938 date=1464289569]Dude - I've rebuilt my forks 4 times. You don't need the tool, or at least I didn't.
Ok, but then how do you stop the cartridge tube from spinning, when doing the allen bolt up?
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I've never had a problem doing the bolt up, it's normally undoing it that's the pain. Top trick is to hacksaw the right angle off a correct size Allen key leaving you the long straight bit then use this in an electric drill, the initial torque of the drill spinning up usually works, i.e. several quick burst after the tube stops spinning, may well work in reverse for doing it back up but if you're refitting all the parts having cleaned everything with paraffin and before putting any oil in the bolt should tighten up without issue.
26-05-16, 09:23 PM (This post was last modified: 26-05-16, 11:08 PM by AyJay.)
(26-05-16, 08:30 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: [quote author=AyJay link=topic=20136.msg232938#msg232938 date=1464289569]Dude - I've rebuilt my forks 4 times. You don't need the tool, or at least I didn't.
Ok, but then how do you stop the cartridge tube from spinning, when doing the allen bolt up?
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Fair question. Thing is, I'm not entirely sure it's even necessary to have the tool.
I know I must sound like I'm talking bollocks, but I've done this four times now, it's just not an issue. If it was spinning, you certainly couldn't torque them up correctly either, but I am talking about a bike that's done 149600 miles, 4 trips up the Alps and passed 14 MOTs with not even an advisory, so I must have done something right! I can't imagine I've just got lucky....
For getting them undone, an impact driver is very handy, by the way. You don't even need a clutch puller to take the flywheel off an engine with one of those. Brrrrr, click, and it's off... simple.
Edit: I probably am talking bollocks.Did I just use a spanner... I honestly can't remember...
There's several threads on the FZ1OA site showing cartridge holders owners have made out of plastic tube and the right size socket or box wrench. Also, if you have access to an air or battery-powered impact driver, those will rattle the allen bolt out effectively.
I'm persuaded by Maxton's view that the alloy damper tube does wear. A look at old fork oil coming out of several forks shows just how much metal has gone into the oil over time.
Working on forks at the pro level, fitting and calibrating new valves and shim stacks for example, requires tools and workshop facilities most of us don't have. However, the simple nature of the Fazer 1000 forks makes them a lot easier to work on at the basic level of changing oil, replacing seals and bushes and fitting new springs.
A 26mm socket taped to a length of alloy or plastic tubing about 20" long,drill a hole through the opposite end of the tubing to allow the insertion of a screwdriver forming a T-bar,works a treat.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
[size=78%]I'm persuaded by Maxton's view that the alloy damper tube does wear. A look at old fork oil coming out of several forks shows just how much metal has gone into the oil over time.[/size]
[/size][size=78%]Working on forks at the pro level, fitting and calibrating new valves and shim stacks for example, requires tools and workshop facilities most of us don't have. [/size]
[/size][size=78%]However, the simple nature of the Fazer 1000 forks makes them a lot easier to work on at the basic level of changing oil, replacing seals and bushes and fitting new springs.[/size]
I find this encouraging, specially from some that has seen the inside of a lot of forks.
If the £365 maxton quoted included that SS catridge tube then its seriously tempting.
Yes, I have thought about that each every time I have broached the idea of an R1 conversion - the fazer forks are going to cheaper to maintain moving forward.
(25-05-16, 02:29 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: Just following on from this as I still exploring all avenues....
Spoke to Yamaha Tech UK and they are saying completely the opposite to Tyres4bikes, Brooke,m Maxton, ketech, etc etc.. They have said all I need to do is have the right weight oil in there and the steps would be -
1. Drain the oil out of forks and leave to drain for a few hours. 2. Flush the forks with cheap 5w oil, and again leave to drain. 3. Then place correct amount of Kayaba 01 (from what I have found online this is 5w oil)
Then set the forks back to std setting (if not already) and work work from there.
Yamaha and Tyres4bikes have never heard of the cartridge tube wear, as per Maxton's statement. And as these replacement Stainless Steel tubes cost £100 plus vat per pair I am leaning away from going with them (Ktech was out of the window ages ago due to the new ludicrous price PDQ quoting @£750 fitted).
So now I am at the stage where I am strongly considering Tyres4bikes, as for £180 they will
dissemble and clean all the internals.
change the oil and dust seals.
replace the fork oil with 7.5w.
return postage.
@Peasy, can you give me a break down of what your bike was like before and after please?
Sorry for late reply mate, been away. To be honest I'd not had my fazer long when I did the r6 rear so just did the front anyway so not much to compare to from before really. Sorry. It's almost 2 years and after refitting and a quick setup I've not touched them at all.
These were my forks stripped down just to see what's all there...
Has anyone use 3rd party fork bushes on this bike? or is it advisable to use genuine only..? I ask because Wemoto are less than half the price of genuine etc.
(28-05-16, 11:44 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: But back on topic, I took some pics of 2 things that troubling me - the damper tube and the preload adjusters on the fork tops -
There is some(I can just feel and see it) sideways (lateral play) between the damping piston and damping tube - is this normal?
The preload adjusters only come out to 4.5 lines, I'm guessing this wont be an issue if I am heavy enough etc.
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