Dies without choke and kills battery

[darrsi]

The trick that some people don't realise is to put the choke on first THEN start the bike.
Otherwise if you do things the opposite way round it all gets a bit messy.

[Gaiare]

Yeah i was starting it cold with the choke off, and then boosting the rpms to about 3k with the choke so it wouldnt die on me. Will do it the way outlined in the thread.

[noggythenog]

The trick that some people don't realise is to put the choke on first THEN start the bike.
Otherwise if you do things the opposite way round it all gets a bit messy.

+1

[BBROWN1664]

+1

Choke and NO throttle

[Gaiare]

Hey guys. So I had the bike checked and the multimeter reading was right on. Put in a battery and its been holding perfectly fine. Must have just been a crappy coincidence.

Thanks a ton for teaching me the choke thing. Starts and actually idles way better now. Helped a lot.

I have gotten concerned about this oil light thing. It comes on for a couple seconds from time to time. Oil level is right in between the markers and was measured out to manual specification when being changed. Should I get my oil pressure checked? Should I maybe put a thicker oil in now that it's cold?

The bike oil level was over filled when I got it and was ridden that way briefly before I changed the oil and filter. Could that somehow impact my oil light?

Again. Thank you all for all the help.

[noggythenog]

Oil light is common....not based on pressure...it is a level switch....if the oil isnt up to max the light can come on under hard accelaration or on hills even though the level is ok...ok as long as it is between the maximum and minimum markers next to the sight glass 8)

[Gaiare]

So no need to top it up then and nothing to be concerned about? Great. Thanks.

I'll get the tps checked one of these days but somehow the issues seemed to be gone when I rode it this morning. Thank you all for the help.

[darrsi]

So no need to top it up then and nothing to be concerned about? Great. Thanks.

I'll get the tps checked one of these days but somehow the issues seemed to be gone when I rode it this morning. Thank you all for the help.

All you have to do is:


1) Switch on ignition (no need to start engine)
2) Unplug the TPS, the black plug on the outside of the carbs on the right side of the bike. You may need a key or screwdriver to help unplug it.
When unplugged your RPM clock needle will go to 3000rpm. This is a code indicating the TPS is either totally faulty, or unplugged!
3) Plug the TPS back in and the RPM needle if all is good should go to 5000rpm.
If it goes to 0rpm or 10,000rpm then it needs adjusting to 5000rpm.
4) To adjust it you need to slacken the two screws on the TPS just enough so you can move it with your hand, you will see the needle jump into either 0rpm, 5000rpm or 10,000rpm as you move it.
You will need a Security Torx T25 driver tool to adjust it though, if it needs doing, with the hole in the middle.


Just checking it takes seconds to do, or if it needs adjusting then a few minutes.
But be warned, as i have found, they can also slowly break down and misbehave, rather than just stop working, so bear that in mind.


The torx tool comes in different forms, i personally have the allen key type.


https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=torx+t...sOCh0AKQ29