Another one from me today, seems to be all brakes at the mo.
I'm getting a rubbing on the same point of my rear disk when I rotate the wheel so I'm thinking it's a smidge warped.
Any recommendations for a keenly priced half decent rear disk? I don't want shite but I don't need top end either.
Cheers
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
I've picked up decent second-hand ones on ebay in the past, but a quick look just now hasn't revealed any I'd be tempted by.
I'd probably opt for EBC, the Chinese ones are a bit of a gamble IMHO.
The real difficulty comes when you try to take the old one off. The thread lock Yamaha used bonds pretty tight after 15 years of curing and the steel screws corrode in the alloy of the wheel because the holes are open-ended.
You might be lucky and shift them after a lot of soaking in PlusGas or similar and then gentle heat (100ºC).
I ended up welding a steel bar to each of the screw heads in turn to persuade the most reluctant ones out, the heat weakens the bond but is brief enough to do so without roasting the bearing seals or annealing the whole hub.
Oh no..... this sounds like the potential for another downpipe header bolt fiasco that ended up costing me hundreds! :'(
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
(26-06-15, 03:40 PM)HarryHornby link Wrote: Oh no..... this sounds like the potential for another downpipe header bolt fiasco that ended up costing me hundreds! :'(
Get yourself a blowtorch and gently heat the bolts to melt the threadlock before trying to undo the bolts. A soldering iron will do it as well but will take a bit longer to get the heat through.
I could change my opinion, but then we'd both be wrong.
I ended up ruining the thread on a couple of the holes drilling the bolts out after shearing the heads off because the wouldn't budge. Ended up getting another wheel off eBay and still not got around to fixing original wheel.
I got a wavy design Chinese disk from eBay and had no problem last 40k miles with it
26-06-15, 04:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-06-15, 04:02 PM by HarryHornby.)
:uhuh la la la la la not listening to anything along the lines of "I just drilled out the bolts" "easy job" ha ha. fell for that one before, eah, Red 98? :'(
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
Easy if you got decent pillar mounted drill. Next to impossible with handheld one.
Mind you when I was young and stupid I managed to drill out a broken exhaust stud on my Kawasaki 550 but I wouldn't even think about it now
I had an EBC Pro Lite rear disc before, and although I was using the rear more than normal as I had a front brake juddering issue, I literally chewed into it like soft cheese with sintered pads in about 10 months!
I shudder the thought of even looking for discs now, it's an expensive minefield.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I have a rear disc in the garage somewhere...its from a FZS1000 so don't know if it'll fit or not, but If anyone knows if it will its for sale.
I recently buggered a back wheel by trying to get the disc off. I did the recommended heat up with a blow torch to soften the loctite stuff, used an impact driver and still ended up snapping the heads off the bolts. Seems to me that Mr Yamaha really dropped a bollock when he thought that open ended steel bolts in a alloy wheel would be a sensible configuration. Now I have to buy another wheel and I intend to replace the steel bolts with something firmer, possibly titanium or unicorn horn. It still boggles my small brain that the japs still use the cheapest crap to bolt their wonderful machines together. Piss and moan, piss and moan etc :'(
