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Sprocket Washer Bent?
#21
£6.00 :eek...half that from yamahaha.
FOCing down under.......dodging vacant Skippy's.
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#22
(19-03-15, 07:54 PM)YamFazFan link Wrote: According to information contained in the 'Lost your front sprocket and washer?' thread, a number of output shafts could be found to be slightly undersized when the outside diameter of the threaded part was measured, resulting in the threads on the nut not engaging as well as could be expected with the shaft threads. Would this explain why some bikes have done many miles on the original nut with no issues??.


Makes sense
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#23
I had no problem removing mine.....it done it its self.. :rolleyes
FOCing down under.......dodging vacant Skippy's.
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#24
Not being funny Anut but based on your O.P and title of this thread, perhaps you should take the bike to a mechanic to do the upgrade.  Wink
Women have chocolate men have bikes.....
including ones who like chocolate....Wink
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#25
i will be doing that i suspect.......i have the parts and i am going to run it up to the local shop at some point so it can wait for them to do it
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#26
....for anyone who has taken the sprocket cover off.....did you need to replace the gasket....mine seemed to have been so badly caked in rubbish its un-usable



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#27
it has a gasket?


it doesn't hold oil i don't see why it would have or need one.
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#28
(20-03-15, 06:26 PM)Paulfzs link Wrote: it has a gasket?


I also had some sealing glue on the front mating surface of the sprocket cover. It is only for preventing chain oil "leaking" out to the front I reckon.
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#29
(20-03-15, 06:32 PM)rhinoeli link Wrote: [quote author=Paulfzs link=topic=16313.msg187868#msg187868 date=1426872365]
it has a gasket?


I also had some sealing glue on the front mating surface of the sprocket cover. It is only for preventing chain oil "leaking" out to the front I reckon.
[/quote]
Yes that is it but most people do not refit without any probs although you might have to adjust the clutch to compensate even for that tiny distance
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#30
The gasket seems quite expensive for what it is tho. Pretty sure it's around £25. I've always wondered how necessary it is to replace it.
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#31
if its to stop oil leaking out i will apply a thin coat of something to the surface of the cover when i re-assemble i think....
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#32
(19-03-15, 08:31 PM)stevie-g1968 link Wrote: £6.00 :eek...half that from yamahaha.

Still a lot better deal than this offering on fleabay

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vie...11&alt=web
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#33
(20-03-15, 10:31 PM)anutz link Wrote: if its to stop oil leaking out i will apply a thin coat of something to the surface of the cover when i re-assemble i think....
No one seems to know what the gasket is for- it can't be there to stop any fluids leaking out as there's a big hole on the right of it for the chain!
Some say...
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#34
(21-03-15, 10:14 AM)Jules-C link Wrote: [quote author=stevie-g1968 link=topic=16313.msg187708#msg187708 date=1426793473]
£6.00 :eek...half that from yamahaha.

Still a lot better deal than this offering on fleabay

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vie...11&alt=web
[/quote]

was meaning I think the price around £ 2.50 I think....but 15 quid for the usless 9mm nut....having a larf..
FOCing down under.......dodging vacant Skippy's.
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#35
(21-03-15, 10:28 AM)Punkstig link Wrote: No one seems to know what the gasket is for- it can't be there to stop any fluids leaking out as there's a big hole on the right of it for the chain!

It do stops leaking chain oil to the front. What else could be its function?
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#36
If anyone else has done this, when you re-assembled things, did you have to adjust your clutch lever?


When i pull the clutch fully in, there is still drive to the back wheel, when its on the center stand and i put it in first with the clutch in, the wheel has positive drive, extremely weak but its there....


Assuming adjusting the cables will solve?
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#37
Should really be adjusted from the bottom end first then the lever end.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#38
That phah nom eh nom (help please) is normal when on the stand, but in theory if you had a gasket and removed you may have to adjust the clutch, when you look at how the mechanism works, that long leaver travel only translates into a very small push on the clutch push rodd  to operate the clutch and so a very slight change in distance caused by removing the gasket could make a difference
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#39
(21-03-15, 09:08 PM)anutz link Wrote: If anyone else has done this, when you re-assembled things, did you have to adjust your clutch lever?


When i pull the clutch fully in, there is still drive to the back wheel, when its on the center stand and i put it in first with the clutch in, the wheel has positive drive, extremely weak but its there....


Assuming adjusting the cables will solve?

I wouldn't spend too long trying to eliminate that. As long as the drive is only very weak, as you say it is, that's pretty normal & to be expected on wet sump bikes. It's an effect where the oil between the clutch plates creates drag.
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#40
Thanks all, i think its normal based on the comments, and there are no other issues
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