Ivans kit

[ricknz]

Going well with Ivanising the carbs... just waiting for my replacement gaskets and float needle/seat to arrive from the UK and have done most of the Ivanising tasks.


Tonight I completed probably the one everyone dreads... drilling out the two pilot bypass air holes. I followed the instructions on Pat's site and it went well - although the angle you need to drill at means you end up drilling an angled holes... and now I'm worrying that I've drilled them too large... see pics below (first is standard sized holes, second is enlarged two as-per Pat's/Ivans instructions - these are pictures from different carbs).


A quick question - with the butterflies shut would you usually expect to see a very small part of the first pilot hole (closest to the mixture screw) or is it completely covered by the butterfly? At the moment mine is completely covered. Also I noticed carbs a little out of sync (visually when looking at butterfly edges and first pilot hole) - is setting the balance by eye at slight throttle openings a good idea/relatively accurate?

[sadlonelygit]

look fine to me.
you cannot balance carbs by eye :rollin
each cylinder draws in a different amount of mixture due to valve clearance differences and (unless it's blue printed) different strokes of the pistons.

[ricknz]

Ok cool - thanks. The process went well and I felt the pin vise tighten and then break through... I was just a little worried with the size and profile of the hole.

I have a $2 manometer and so will balance properly when re-installed, but thought I may be able to get it to a good starting position beforehand to minimise adjustments later.

[sadlonelygit]

put some tipex on the adjusting screw heads..............because once the carbs are on the bike they mysteriously vanish.
silly question but you do know how to synch the carbs properly?
guy i know who works for Mclaren wondered why it only took me 5-10 mins to synch his bike up but took him best part of an hour :eek

[ricknz]

Yip... done it a few times on my FZS600 back in the day... of course it would be quicker with a 4-way carb tune or something, but this cheaper method also works well

[Falcon 269]

Like SLG said, all good.

[ricknz]

ok awesome

[ricknz]

Actually ordered myself a carbtune... early Xmas pressie


Currently having some discussions on FZ1OA about the float needle/seats. I'm installed pattern parts and without any adjustment to the tab its 14.0mm (pattern needle 0.3mm longer than OEM). Ivan is suggesting to get OEM.


However, thinking out loud, the way I see it is that as long as the float level is correctly set as-per Ivans specifications, then the fact its non-OEM shouldn't matter... I mean, its just a tap for fuel effectively... nothing like a jet or needle.


One thing I've also noticed is that the spring in the needle is stiffer... much stiffer... so making the measurement process much easier ('cos the float doesn't compress the spring!). I think Falcon Mike said this was just for damping... so again, it shouldn't make any difference I'm thinking... what do you all think?

[Falcon 269]

The length of the pattern needle will make a difference to the fuel level, even if you leave the float tang as standard. 

You can determine fuel level in the float bowl by connecting a clear tube to the float bowl drain lug and holding it vertical alongside the carb.  This process is explained in the workshop manual.

Using OEM needles would take this element of uncertainty out of the job, though.

[ricknz]

So if I set float level to 14.5mm using the pattern parts the fuel level will be different to a float level of 14.5mm with OEM parts? I don't quite follow that logic...


What about the spring at the end of the needle? Again I'm thinking this doesn't matter, just used for damping of float bowl with wheelies?!

[Falcon 269]

Just re-read your previous post and I understand what you're saying now.  Sorry.

If you have 14mm with no adjustment using the pattern parts, and the needle body is 0.3mm longer than OEM, I'd say try fitting as they are - ie, don't bother bending the float tang at all.

However, if the extra 0.3mm is measured to the spring-loaded tip, the outcome when fuel is in the carbs will be less easy to predict.

Either way, I'd be inclined to fit and measure to be sure of the actual installed fuel height.

[ricknz]

Yep, extra 0.3mm is to spring...


I can't see that it matters actually... as long as the needle closes at 14.5mm it shouldn't matter whether it's longer or shorter than OEM...


Time will tell I suppose!