(09-09-14, 03:15 AM)gixersix link Wrote: 1.) a gasket - isn't this "compartment" dry? Has anyone''s gasket come apart when you opened the case? Re-used the gasket?
2.) Yamabond?
i have heard engine builders swear by this stuff, but really - won't a small smear of silicon gasket do the same job?
Any change in peak hp is only going to be small, maybe 1 bhp at most and well within the 5% error expectation of a dyno run. Don't worry about it. 
Almost dry compartment, hence the gasket.
Grease the gasket on both sides and it will seal perfectly but come off easily if you want to remove the cover again. 
Cheers!
I have a before and after run on the same Dyno, at the time bike was fitted with Quill T3 and Ivans slip on kit. IIRC The 4 degree ignition advancer made between 1 and 4 bhp extra up to 9,000rpm after that it was the same. Most of the gain was between 3,500 and 6,000 rpm, as mentioned easier starting, smoother driving and much nicer two up.
I am home next week I will try to find the Dyno run print out and post it here.
IIRC my figure were.
Stock bike (USA import) with 990 miles, 123.5 bhp
Quill T3 and Ivans slip on kit, fitted by Mike, 129 but with bigger gains in mid range (about a week after first run)
as above but with 4 degree ignition advancer gained extra 4 bhp between 5-6,000 rpm same 129 bhp (same day as above)
Akrapovic Ti race can with ivans MB kit (again fitted by Mike) 136 bhp with gains everywhere and a very smooth power curve. fitted @5,500 miles. (about two years after first run)
All Dyno runs carried out at Millenium Motorcycles (power runs only, no mods) in St Helens.
I have also had Dyno runs carried out at Hammer and Tongs in Warrington and J33 near Lancaster which varied by 4 or 5 bhp from those above.
Is there any visual difference between the stock item and the 4 degree one, lettering, marks etc. Would be good to check it hasn't been done before I order one.
the picture I posted few posts back has a picture of an OEM one. the aftermarket ones do not have "denso" on them (I dont know if all OEM ones do though, but its likely they do).
Some of the aftermarked ones have a "4" etched onto them.
just ordered one
West Coast Chillin
Will have a look to see if mine already has one and if not, may give one a try. May help with the vibe issue as well.
I think it's definitely worth it for the small outlay... I don't do much mega spirited riding though, so losing something off the top end is not an issue for me whatsoever.
I have purchased one of these and just taken the cover off to have a go at fitting. I have backed out for tonight as have found the bolt too tight to remove with my small socket set and will have a go with a larger one tomorrow when the light is better. Just a little concerned at the amount of pressure required to free the bolt and the effects on the cam chain turning as I don't want to upset anything. Should I be concerned or just use more force? Any advice appreciated. Thanks
Rich
The gasket split on mine and I just put a smear of gasket sealant on the split bit and it has never leaked, had a new gasket since last xmas and still not got round to fitting it.
Remember silicon is great in the right place but a destruction waiting to happen once excess stringy bits get into oil ways, use very sparingly, better still a non-setting sealant but still sparingly. It's only ptfe tape that stands for 'put the foccer everywhere'! :lol
Save the planet...It's the only one with beer!
10-09-14, 08:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-09-14, 08:46 PM by mickvp.)
(10-09-14, 07:36 PM)trpFZS1 link Wrote: I have purchased one of these and just taken the cover off to have a go at fitting. I have backed out for tonight as have found the bolt too tight to remove with my small socket set and will have a go with a larger one tomorrow when the light is better. Just a little concerned at the amount of pressure required to free the bolt and the effects on the cam chain turning as I don't want to upset anything. Should I be concerned or just use more force? Any advice appreciated. Thanks
I was worried about this as well. I basically ended up putting the bike into gear, standing on the rear braks with my left foot whilst bending over to remove the bolt (ideally if you had someone to sit on the bike and put some force onto the rear brake).
side stand, not centre stand.
Eventually it came loose and Ive had no ill effects after 200 miles.
Thanks for the feedback and reassurance Mickvp. I will have another go tomorrow. I tried a similar approach to you today and the bolt did not seem like it was showing any sign of freeing. Cheers, Rich
Rich
What MickVP said. Rear brake on, long lever on the socket and go for it. It's on quite tight and locktited as well, so will take a bit of shifting. The cam timing won't be affected by doing this.
I fitted my advancer successfully this morning following the feedback provided then went for a quick 25 mile spin. Have to say this mod is well worth doing as the pick up in the low rev range is cleaner and smoother. Didn't notice any drop in performance elsewhere so far. My bike was full Monty'd by Mike in May which greatly improved things and I think this mod is the icing on the cake. Thanks for the help and advice I received. Cheers, Rich.
Rich
Does anybody know offhand what the torque setting for tightening the bolt is?
In the Haynes manual it lists the torque setting for the "Timing Rotor Bolt" as 60Nm which is what I have used on mine.
Rich
Good to see lots of people happy fitting the advancer. Has anyone got dyno results for before and after yet on a full monty? Funnily enough i sold my standard fazer with the ignition advancer because compared to the full monty one with ignition advancer it was a poor relative and i couldn't help comparing them. I bought a sprint st 1050 and compared to a standard fazer i have to say the st is better in every aspect except outright power. It isn't as good as a full monty fazer mind you!
If it's broken, it's not fixed.
Out if interest, have you guys loctited the bolt on refitting? I haven't done as I wanted to see what the advancer made first in case I wanted to refit the original, but did tighten to 60Nm. I am going to keep the 4 degree advancer in my bike as I like the results. Should I now loctite it or is this not essential. (Don't want to keep messing if it's not required). Thanks
Rich
I loctited mine in, yes, but I'm quite pernickety that way. For Tue couple of quid for a bottle of loctite, I wouldn't want to risk it. Much cheaper than a new engine if it comes loose, that's my thinking
Thanks Mickvp. Good call. I will do mine too.
Rich
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