Down pipes

[hightower]

The cam and followers removal looks complicated - can anybody offer some first hand step by steps to help me through it

[unfazed]

Removing the stud
Grind the stud flat within a few mm to the head, put a good deep punch mark dead centre and use a lefthand drill bit to drill it out. I have found that this method often spins the stud out. Start carefully with a 3 or 4 mm bit and work up. I usual use a 3mm bit to start, but they are easy to break if not extremely careful. If unsure start with a 4mm.

Removing the cams.
More of a fiddly than difficult job to do.  Take your time and make sure you have access to a good quality torque wrench when putting it back together as cam caps bolts only require 10Nm torque.
Remove the Alternator cover and line up the marks (T mark with the crankcase mating point at the front) Cam marks should line up exactly or within a few mm. If they are not within a few mm of the marks, it indicates chain wear and might be worth considering changing the chain.  Post a picture of the cam marks looking down straight as it is difficult to judge from the picture you have up.
Remove the Tensioner cap bolt.
Remove the cam Chain tensioner
Remove the cam chain guide.
Now the inlet cam first.
Loosen all the cam cap bolts a little first in a crisscross pattern, both sides should be treated as one whole piece.
Now loosen bolts evenly to about 1.5mm above the cam caps.
Cam caps may be stuck in place due to the tight tolerances of the dowels.
If cam caps do not move tap them gently. They might pop up with a crack and scare the crap out of you. :lol
Keep unscrewing all 11 bolts (Guide bolt is already removed) evenly a little at the time until they are all loose enough to be removed and there is no pressure on the cam caps,
Remove the cam caps and the 6 dowels. Try not to drop the bolts or dowels down the chain tunnel. :'(
The cam caps must go back on the exact same place and way they were removed.
Lift up the cam and roll it towards the front of the engine, lift off the chain and tie it up.  The cam must also go back in the same position.

Now do the exhaust cam.

[hightower]

Does the chain need to be kept tightly tied, or just so it doesn't fall? The cams are aligned at tdc, so should be ok.

Thanks for detailed write up. Should drilling like that be successful or just if lucky? What about front cam guide, how do I remove that?

[unfazed]

Does the chain need to be kept tightly tied, or just so it doesn't fall? The cams are aligned at tdc, so should be ok.

Thanks for detailed write up. Should drilling like that be successful or just if lucky? What about front cam guide, how do I remove that?

Just so it does not fall, but if it does it is not a huge problem as it can be picked out with a piece of bent stiff or Flexible Claw Pick Up Tool.

It has worked for me 9 out of 10 times and any time it did not there was exceptionally bad corrosion. The reason for leaving a few mm is get a grip with a vise grip to try unscrewing if the 4 mm bit does not twist it out. Most important thing is not to break the bit, so use good quality sharp ones bits. They may need to be ordered specially by your local engineering shop. The problem with using normal bits is that it is inclined to tighten the stud more.

Front cam guide does not need to be removed, but it just lifts out as it is only located in slots and the cam cover holds it in place

[Buzz]

I'd go the rivet nut route...oh.

:'( :evil

At least you'll get some other stuff sorted while you're doing the helicoil.  Hope you get it fixed without too much bother.

[hightower]

I know Buzz, I'm like the 3 year old that never does what he's told. To be honest, it was just too tempting, with that much of the stud showing still I honestly thought I had a great chance to get it removed and do the job properly.


Now I'm paying for it, but it's giving me some good experience as well as allowing me to do a job I've wanted to do since I got the bike last year.

[hightower]

Ok, I need some advice (or opinions).


I have a few options:


1) Drill the head myself, fixing in a new helicoil - costing about £10 for the helicoil kit
2) Pay to get a shop to drill it for me - costs about £25. Gives peace of mind but won't have chance to take to shop until next week!
3) Don't drill the thread, but instead try an easy out on the stud, after using heat and penetrating oil


I like option three, as it's cheapest and easiest (if it works). However, how much heat can I put on this stud/the head around it? Too much will damage the alloy head right? There's no stud protruding to heat that by itself - if I heat the stud I also heat the head. Also, how realistic am I at getting it out this way - the last thing I want to do is snap an easy out in there too, surely that would be game over?


Need some help, the sooner the better so I can order the bits I need.


Thanks,

[unfazed]

Forget option 3 to easy to break the "easy out" because of the small size required. If that happens it is a real pain in the ass to get it out.

[hightower]

Thanks for response. I'd decided that about 10 minutes after I posted I think, just saw too many reviews saying it had snapped and didn't want to risk it.


So, head is off and ready to take in to work to drill out and helicoil it - hope the helicoil kit comes tomorrow so I can start the rebuild.


Another question - when I pulled the head it split away from the crankcase at the lower end too - so the head is off but the middle section is also loose (the bit that holds the piston - is it all called the head or does it have a different name). Anyway, I was planning on pulling this off tomorrow to help paint - if I do is there anything to be aware of (special tools required, additional parts etc). It's already split from the engine a bit so guessing I need a new gasket for it?

[hightower]

So the latest update is, the hole is drilled and helicoiled. It's not exactly centred so interested to see how much free there is in downpipe flange - may need to drill one of them to make the mounting hole a little larger - we'll see.


It took some drilling, but steady away with some cobalt bits - the DT department at work really helped me out.


So now I have a nice fresh hole ready for my replacement stud. But first things first. I need to clean/paint outside (and possibly inside now too), as well as lapping the valves.


Someone from the DT department said to use a dishwasher tablet and some soft brushes to degrease the head before painting. Can anybody verify if this is a) safe to do and b) works well? Also, I was going to use some carb cleaner to clean up the insides (some alloy from the drilling has entered inside - could use a good clean. Is this safe?


Open to suggestions for cleaning and painting - I have some VHT header paint, but would be hard masking the head off, so was thinking to cover it with something using a brush and just going steady.


Any help at all appreciated.

[Dead Eye]

So now I have a nice fresh hole ready for my replacement stud.

That's what she said 


I'm sorry, I just couldn't resist, too much of a perfect opportunity

[hightower]

Ok foccers, today is the big day. Yesterday I lapped and reinstalled the valves, and painted the block and head. Today is the day when I try to get it all back together.


If I'm sat revving a bike at 4pm I'll be very very happy. Although I do expect this process to be slow going, so not exactly confident it will all be finished today.


Here goes, wish me luck. (Starting with some fried eggs for energy)

[Gazbo]

Back to the top of the subject. I got my stainless downpipes from sandybikespares (ebay). They have been spot on so far (about 1500 miles), BUT... the header gaskets, although appearing to be fine quality, keep freeing off in the bores( I suppose they are gradually collapsing down, and then they rattle in the slot when below 3k revs.Seriously - it sounds like you are about to drop a rod ! I Tightened studs a bit more ( even though I had given them a proper Post heat cycle re-torque). It cured everything for about 1.3k. Gradually it has come back to haunt. Tonight on the way home, as I passed parked cars, the reflected sound was akin to someone shaking a bag o' spanners next to me ! Tightened again. Cured again. I'm now well off the torque setting. So I won't be doing it any more. The garage said I should have put OEM seals in. Well you just don't do you. not when these came with the pipes. But I'm gonna - next time it rattles. So in a nutshell - the pipes are fine. I was not overly impressed with the gaskets - that's all. And if yours suddenly sounds like Cozy Powell riding his  hi-hats when he's pissed - take a breather. Might not be a rod. or cam chain tensioner etc.etc. Just check the exhaust nuts are nipped up propperly first! Careful - Not too much though !!!