Got a problem with the bike, 2002 FZS, been great but had some misfire issues last winter, would start ok then would drop to 3 or even 2 cylinders after a few miles, always when under 5 Deg C or so, could get the other cylinders to fire if I revved it up or ride for 10 miles and they would kick in like a turbo!!! However..... maybe related.......
Now, as in April, if I ride easy on the throttle, no problem, she goes as a Fazer can, if I snap open the throttle, it's like hitting a rev limiter and the bike judders as though I'm not on all 4 cylinders, doesn't matter what gear I'm in and always under load, (In neutral and at a standstill, I can't replicate it) If I roll off the throttle and slow back on, the bike runs fine.
The plug were new 2k miles ago, 36k on the bike, stripped the barbs down and the diaphrams are clean, no perishing, the float bowls are clean, no gunk though had some crap under the diaphrams.
Any idea's as I'm all out.
That's not completely unusual, my bike did that too. The first problem sounds like carb icing, a known fault. the second just calls fro smooth throttle movement, I shouldn't worry hugely about it. May be worth checking it isn't restricted, of course!!
Welcome to the site, BTW! 
The Deef's apprentice
Under 5 degrees could possibly be carb icing, i had it years ago and it makes the bike run like a tractor.
Ideally the carb heater circuit piping needs keeping clear, but the pipes are so thin they clog up easily.
I personally put 200ml of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol in a full tank of fuel during cold times and i've never had a problem since, it also removes any water/moisture from your tank. I've been doing that for years with no issues whatsoever. I buy 5 litres at a time off Ebay for about £14.
As for the other issue, what brand of air filter are you using? It sounds air related to me, possibly either an air leak, or a blocked or cheap crappy filter.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
09-04-14, 12:56 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-04-14, 12:59 AM by rodyork.)
I cant believe Ive been awarded 4 posts since the Yuku move.
anyway- heres a vid I did on balancing...where I made a cnut of myself was the icing probs....good anti freeze is your friend in UK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYgN2-96Ik0#
(09-04-14, 12:56 AM)rodyork link Wrote: I cant believe Ive been awarded 4 posts since the Yuku move.
anyway- heres a vid I did on balancing...where I made a cnut of myself was the icing probs....good anti freeze is your friend in UK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYgN2-96Ik0#
PM Farjo, he should be able to restore your old post count.
The Deef's apprentice
(09-04-14, 12:56 AM)rodyork link Wrote: I cant believe Ive been awarded 4 posts since the Yuku move.
anyway- heres a vid I did on balancing...where I made a cnut of myself was the icing probs....good anti freeze is your friend in UK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYgN2-96Ik0#
Not sure what you mean, anti freeze has nothing to do with carb icing?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
With darrsi on that one.. carb icing being the fuel and not the cooling system...
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it..
Got a multi-meter? Could always check the resistances on the primary/secondary coils, pretty straight forward check. Similarly, you can check HT leads at same time.
(09-04-14, 10:41 AM)Arfa link Wrote: Got a multi-meter? Could always check the resistances on the primary/secondary coils, pretty straight forward check. Similarly, you can check HT leads at same time.
+1 for the coils. Had exactly the same symptoms on the Tiger - cleaned the carbs out twice before checking the coils. 1 replacement coil later, running sweet as a nut!
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
Did you replace the spark plug caps? Just saying mine was similar running on 2 or 3 cylinders the caps where shorting out to the engine block one minute then would run fine.
Thanks for the welcome and response :-) Tried fuel additives to stop carb icing, non worked really :-( I did know about the heating system for the carbs and wondering if the small pipes from the coolant system were blocked, I now know they are not as I've got the carbs off the bike, so no problems there, in response to ChristoT, I agree that smooth throttle works wonders but when you need to drop a cog and overtake a car or 3, the last thing you expect is for the bike to not go anywhere, not speed up, nothing, just judder and sound worse than Worzel Gummages tractor, not good really, so def a fault somewhere. Also had the bike almost 4 years and it's not restricted :-D Darssi, got the standard air filter in, it's clean too, as for plug caps, that is one for me to check y82ugp, was suggested I find somewhere really dark, easy here, and see if I have any arcing over, once the carbs are back on, that is one to try. I did chop off 1cm of the leads to the caps, it is a 13 year old bike and on original caps etc, made no difference but was worth a go. Arfa, I do have a multi meter, the coils are one thing I will need to look at. The local bike shop suggested fuel pump, any thoughts on this?
(09-04-14, 10:25 PM)Sannox link Wrote: Thanks for the welcome and response :-) Tried fuel additives to stop carb icing, non worked really :-( I did know about the heating system for the carbs and wondering if the small pipes from the coolant system were blocked, I now know they are not as I've got the carbs off the bike, so no problems there, in response to ChristoT, I agree that smooth throttle works wonders but when you need to drop a cog and overtake a car or 3, the last thing you expect is for the bike to not go anywhere, not speed up, nothing, just judder and sound worse than Worzel Gummages tractor, not good really, so def a fault somewhere. Also had the bike almost 4 years and it's not restricted :-D Darssi, got the standard air filter in, it's clean too, as for plug caps, that is one for me to check y82ugp, was suggested I find somewhere really dark, easy here, and see if I have any arcing over, once the carbs are back on, that is one to try. I did chop off 1cm of the leads to the caps, it is a 13 year old bike and on original caps etc, made no difference but was worth a go. Arfa, I do have a multi meter, the coils are one thing I will need to look at. The local bike shop suggested fuel pump, any thoughts on this?
Could be the pump, would make sense that it struggles under high load.
That said, my money would be on the spark p;ug caps as your symptoms sound very similar to mine. I didn't have any arching, but swapped the caps over anyway and it was fine!
Back to carb icing question, did the bike always go rough around the same area? Mine was at exactly the same spot, about a mile away from my house.
I tried the proper fuel additives, not worth a shit, and expensive, at the time about £12 a litre but didn't work at all, then i read about the Isopropyl trick and it worked straight away. And because it's so much cheaper you can put more in the tank.
Even if the pipes are clear it can be caused by moisture in the tank, which the IPA bonds with and then burns as fuel.
Just something to consider if you end up a bit stumped!
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(10-04-14, 06:43 AM)darrsi link Wrote: which the IPA bonds with Just make sure you don't use this kind of IPA
[smg id=1841 type=full align=center caption="IPA"]
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines...
(09-04-14, 08:43 AM)johna6968 link Wrote: With darrsi on that one.. carb icing being the fuel and not the cooling system...
You are entirely right...and I am entirely wrong!
Sorry for the mis information- ....I blame the beer!
Liking the IPA idea :-) After 10 of them, I won't care :-D
Bunged the carbs back on tonight, was a bugger of a job to get the air filter housing and tubes back onto the carbs, that took the longest, sadly though, was still the same, so, clean as a whistle carbs and not the carbs, maybe.
On one note, any revs above 5k seems to blast through the stuttering, blow 5k and it's tractor time, above 5, it stutters then takes off, change gear and no problem as the revs are high, but then, at those revs and speeds, you don't snap the throttle open anyway, so still stumped. Going to check the caps next me thinks and look at some IPA :-D
(09-04-14, 10:25 PM)Sannox link Wrote: Thanks for the welcome and response :-) Tried fuel additives to stop carb icing, non worked really :-( I did know about the heating system for the carbs and wondering if the small pipes from the coolant system were blocked, I now know they are not as I've got the carbs off the bike, so no problems there, in response to ChristoT, I agree that smooth throttle works wonders but when you need to drop a cog and overtake a car or 3, the last thing you expect is for the bike to not go anywhere, not speed up, nothing, just judder and sound worse than Worzel Gummages tractor, not good really, so def a fault somewhere. Also had the bike almost 4 years and it's not restricted :-D Darssi, got the standard air filter in, it's clean too, as for plug caps, that is one for me to check y82ugp, was suggested I find somewhere really dark, easy here, and see if I have any arcing over, once the carbs are back on, that is one to try. I did chop off 1cm of the leads to the caps, it is a 13 year old bike and on original caps etc, made no difference but was worth a go. Arfa, I do have a multi meter, the coils are one thing I will need to look at. The local bike shop suggested fuel pump, any thoughts on this?
When you say it runs rotten on overtaking i had a scenario like that where my bike would bog down and it turned out to be a carb inlet rubber that had been folded in on itself on refitting and was letting too much air in.
Maybe worth checking if they are okay with no cracks or splits, especially as they're not too easily visible.
Was gonna suggest a quick TPS check as well, but that should be done before and after a carb balance which i'd imagine your carbs could do with after a bit of tinkering.
However if it is something daft like an air leak then your readings will be false and not help matters either.
It's a horrible situation to be in when you can't pinpoint a fault. :'(
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Checked all the carb inlet rubbers when I had the carbs off, all nice and clean and in good nick, no splits, the whole airbox is as new, a friend suggested kinked breather pipes but I know the issue isn't there, as the carbs are now spotless, inside and out, I'm ruling them out for now, though they do need a balance after my tinkering, I wonder if just a carb balance would sort the issue out, will see. I am wondering about plug caps, got to fire it up in the dark to check for arcing, the plugs are fine, 2k miles old but could be worth a check anyway, the battery is new and charges just fine. Will keep at it :-)
(11-04-14, 10:13 PM)Sannox link Wrote: Checked all the carb inlet rubbers when I had the carbs off, all nice and clean and in good nick, no splits, the whole airbox is as new, a friend suggested kinked breather pipes but I know the issue isn't there, as the carbs are now spotless, inside and out, I'm ruling them out for now, though they do need a balance after my tinkering, I wonder if just a carb balance would sort the issue out, will see. I am wondering about plug caps, got to fire it up in the dark to check for arcing, the plugs are fine, 2k miles old but could be worth a check anyway, the battery is new and charges just fine. Will keep at it :-)
TPS?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Most likely carb icing.
There was a problem with the heater pipes being blocked on some of the Foxeye models,
Apparently during the build process some crap was lodged in the elbows of the heater pipes.
Remove the heater hoses see if you can blow through from one side to the other, if not and insert a small screwdriver or something into the carburettor pipes (the ones I cleared were both on the left side) and dislodge the dirt, then blow it out.
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