So undone all nuts, no problem, this is easy. Get to last nut.... Snap. I barely even lent on it.
It's not the closest but the next one. It's snapped flush with nut so still quite a lot protruding from head. I'm adament this is not getting drilled so help me! I've already started spraying with penetrating oil. I was thinking two nuts locked against each other and gently does it? then if that doesn't work, mole grips?
I'll heat the head a bit too, but any other suggestions?
I saved the pain of a snapped nut and dremelled all mine off last weekend...what a PITA that was but at least I've now got 8 copper slipped brass nuts on there ready for my Venom in the post
Good luck with the repair..I'm sure a rivet nut will sort it and it'll only cost a couple of quid, 1 snapped out of 8 is good going though judging by some of the horror stories I've seen on here!
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines...
Not sure that rivet nut is the solution. I plan on getting the old stud out in tact, thus still having decent thread to install a new replacement nut. Just looking for suggestions of how to get the stud out.
(27-03-14, 09:10 PM)hightower link Wrote: Not sure that rivet nut is the solution. I plan on getting the old stud out in tact, thus still having decent thread to install a new replacement nut. Just looking for suggestions of how to get the stud out.
I bet you planned on getting the nut off without snapping the stud too! Deadeye had some success with an impact and a stud extractor. That's probably the way to go.
(04-02-13, 10:14 PM)Dead Eye link Wrote: I bought a 1/2" drive impact driver from Halfords (I couldn't wait ) and an impact stud remover set from Amazon here; http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001D...00_s00_i00
Most of the larger 1/2" drive extractors range from 6mm up and since the studs are 6mm I wasn't confident that it could get a significant grip. This is why I bought the set which included the 2mm-8mm extractor which worked pretty well. On one of them I almost couldn't get the extractor to let go of the stud once I'd removed it :lol
After several wacks from a hammer, they all (bar one) began to shift and allowed me to use a socket wrench to remove them without sheering them off any further.
For those who may be interested, the machine shop (Star Engineers in Broomfield) were very helpful and it ended up costing me £40. Since this was for two studs (drilled out, re-tapped and heli-coiled) I didn't think the price was too bad
Exactly the same happened to me. Cylinder 3, upper stud went with no pressure whatsoever. Rather than buying a tool I took it into a workshop to get it extracted, but unfortunately it had turned to cheese and had to be drilled anyway. Unless you can borrow an extractor I would consider saving your money for the drill & re-tap as it's likely you will end up having to do this anyway. Fortunately it can be done with the engine in situ (if it's the same stud).
I snapped 6 out of 8 so had to employ various extraction methods.
The most successful was shed loads of penetrating oil, a bit of heat (but let it cool a bit, those studs will be like toffee otherwise! It's the variance in expansion between the stud and the block that cracks the rust. Not that the stud is hot) and Molegrips.
Clamp the grips as HARD as humanly possible, and then start with the tiniest of back and forth movement. It felt ridiculous because i was moving fractions of a millimetre to begin with. but just keep going and don't get impatient.
I freed up 3 like this.
1 I filed to a flat and got a crescent spanner on it.
2 had to drill and re-tap.
And replace them with stainless studding for the love of god!!
28-03-14, 08:32 AM (This post was last modified: 28-03-14, 10:05 AM by Buzz.)
I think you are. If you say you've snapped the bolt just under the nut then the shaft is just too short to get another nut on. The rivet nut has a normal M6 thread running all the way through it which extends below the nut by almost a cm, this should give you enough extra reach to grab onto the existing broken shaft.
As you've got to push this extended part of the rivet nut though the hole in the header clamps it might be a bit tight, the other post said a slightly larger hole (9mm) was needed to give the rivet nut space to rotate.
Of course all of this depends on how much of the snapped shaft you've still got left sticking out the head, the more the better. You say it snapped right below the nut so this solution should be perfect, no extractor, no drilling out and retapping etc.
Ok, so it's all a question on whether the flange has a hole big enough (don't fancy drilling new pipes!) And this rivet nut will provide the strength needed?
28-03-14, 12:04 PM (This post was last modified: 28-03-14, 12:04 PM by Buzz.)
(28-03-14, 11:42 AM)hightower link Wrote: Ok, so it's all a question on whether the flange has a hole big enough (don't fancy drilling new pipes!) And this rivet nut will provide the strength needed?
Yep, but surely drilling an extra 1/2 mm out of one hole on the flange is better than a snapped stud, engine out and a £400 bill? I know which I'd go for.
Regarding strength, you'd have to ask "mobile mouse" but seeing as you're only using 10Nm to hold them on it's not exactly doing the same work as the front sprocket nut.
Best of luck anyways!
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines...
(27-03-14, 10:38 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: There's his post
[quote author=Dead Eye link=topic=5990.msg55832#msg55832 date=1360012458]
I bought a 1/2" drive impact driver from Halfords (I couldn't wait ) and an impact stud remover set from Amazon here; http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001D...00_s00_i00
Most of the larger 1/2" drive extractors range from 6mm up and since the studs are 6mm I wasn't confident that it could get a significant grip. This is why I bought the set which included the 2mm-8mm extractor which worked pretty well. On one of them I almost couldn't get the extractor to let go of the stud once I'd removed it :lol
After several wacks from a hammer, they all (bar one) began to shift and allowed me to use a socket wrench to remove them without sheering them off any further.
For those who may be interested, the machine shop (Star Engineers in Broomfield) were very helpful and it ended up costing me £40. Since this was for two studs (drilled out, re-tapped and heli-coiled) I didn't think the price was too bad
[/quote]
As much as this worked really well for me (they were all very very badly corroded) I did remove the engine to get decent access. I reckon I could have gotten all 8 out without too much issue if I'd been a little more patient with them.
Taking the engine out is a huge deal but it does take a while - took me a day to remove and a day to replace and this was in winter (early Feb 2013) where the days were short and damn cold. I also didn't have a garage or anything so this was done outside but it worked and saved me a hell of a lot of money. If you only have one to remove, then leaving the engine in situ to attempt a repair is a better idea but access is a bit harder and you need to be more careful with the balance of the bike and how much force you are putting in which direction... I could whack the hell out of my impact driver as the engine was out and resting on gravel
![[Image: a2a8y6y5.jpg]](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/28/a2a8y6y5.jpg)
) and an impact stud remover set from Amazon here; 
![[Image: 242673.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/242673.png)
![[Image: 174802.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/174802.png)
