Engine oil

[nick crisp]

Well, I'm not exactly loaded, but I'm in the fortunate position of being able to afford a couple of things like that at the moment. But I have been in the position of struggling for every penny more than once before, in fact have had to sell my bikes before due to lack of funds, so if you're on a tighter budget, I do understand. I think maybe look for the JASO MA2 approval as per Slaninars post in that case. Don't know where you could look to find out if these cheaper oils are really OK though.

[chaz]

I've been using GTX 10w40 semi synthetic in my car and bike if you go in wilko's, the shop not the motosave, every so often they reduce the price, recomended price is about £24 for 4 litres, normally it's £19.99 sometimes it's £14.99 and a bit ago it was £9.99

[Slaninar]

In some engines it can cause clutch slip, although I believe Ducati recommend it for their bikes (dry clutches of course). A good semi-synthetic is all you need, even with hard usage. Or even a good quality mineral oil will probably suffice.

JASO MA, or better JASO MA2 motorcycle specific oil does NOT cause clutch to slip. That is false information.

Semi synth is good enough for most bikes (even though full synth is better in every way, except the price for most bikes).

Mineral oil is not worth the money, but each can choose for themselves.

car oil comes from oil that was laid down 165 million years ago from the decomposing bodys of 4 legged dinosaurs whereas motorcycle oil comes from dinosaurs that had only two legs and that's why it's more expensive?

I have already pointed out differences of regular car engine and a motorcycle one. So apart from marketing and lower production, there is some quality difference.

A lot of people seem to distrust supermarket own brand stuff, but if its 10w40 semi synthetic bike oil, is it any different to the branded stuff??? Im guessing tesco dont have their own oil refinery so they are they not getting it from the same place?????

Look at the standards they comply with.  API SL and JASO MA2 oils tend to be more expensive than those complying to lower standards.

Also, some oils are branded "synthetic", but are really semi-synthetic.

[nick crisp]

[quote author=nick crisp link=topic=8869.msg88207#msg88207 date=1374007471]
In some engines it can cause clutch slip, although I believe Ducati recommend it for their bikes (dry clutches of course). A good semi-synthetic is all you need, even with hard usage. Or even a good quality mineral oil will probably suffice.

JASO MA, or better JASO MA2 motorcycle specific oil does NOT cause clutch to slip. That is false information.

Semi synth is good enough for most bikes (even though full synth is better in every way, except the price for most bikes).

Mineral oil is not worth the money, but each can choose for themselves.

car oil comes from oil that was laid down 165 million years ago from the decomposing bodys of 4 legged dinosaurs whereas motorcycle oil comes from dinosaurs that had only two legs and that's why it's more expensive?

I have already pointed out differences of regular car engine and a motorcycle one. So apart from marketing and lower production, there is some quality difference.

A lot of people seem to distrust supermarket own brand stuff, but if its 10w40 semi synthetic bike oil, is it any different to the branded stuff??? Im guessing tesco dont have their own oil refinery so they are they not getting it from the same place?????

Look at the standards they comply with.  API SL and JASO MA2 oils tend to be more expensive than those complying to lower standards.

Also, some oils are branded "synthetic", but are really semi-synthetic.
[/quote]
Yes, just looked this up and it seems you are quite right Slaninar. Fully Synthetics don't cause clutch slip - my mistake, apologies. Do you perhaps know of a good site where we can read up on API and JASO standards?

[Slaninar]

Yes, just looked this up and it seems you are quite right Slaninar. Fully Synthetics don't cause clutch slip - my mistake, apologies. Do you perhaps know of a good site where we can read up on API and JASO standards?

Not in English I'm afraid.

This is more towards cars, and do not take it all for granted (as they claim to be "The Bible) of course:

http://www.zag.si/~jank/public/bmw/oil_bible.pdf

[nick crisp]

Mmmm...some interesting reading on there. But as you say, can't all be taken for granted. That's the trouble with oil - because of the vast profits to be made, it's always going to be difficult to find a source you can really trust. However, I think if you read from as many different sources as possible, a consensus could be arrived at.
But thanks for the link, it all helps.

[Farjo]

1. When you get your bike serviced they take oil out of a big drum. I assume that this is nothing special, just the minimum spec oil without the car additives.

2. When people say a motorbike engine creates more shear etc and therefore needs a thicker oil, how do you know that the motorbike oil that is sold is any 'thicker' (or fuller, etc) than car oil, except that it is described as motorcycle oil? Is the oil in (1) suitable for motorcycles?

3. What's to stop someone arranging a supply of ASDA car oil (without the agents) then bottling it up with a picture of a motorcycle on it? Would make a tidy profit! Is there a trading standard that states a motorcycle oil must have certain standards to differentiate it from car oil?

[nick crisp]

1. When you get your bike serviced they take oil out of a big drum. I assume that this is nothing special, just the minimum spec oil without the car additives.

2. When people say a motorbike engine creates more shear etc and therefore needs a thicker oil, how do you know that the motorbike oil that is sold is any 'thicker' (or fuller, etc) than car oil, except that it is described as motorcycle oil? Is the oil in (1) suitable for motorcycles?

3. What's to stop someone arranging a supply of ASDA car oil (without the agents) then bottling it up with a picture of a motorcycle on it? Would make a tidy profit! Is there a trading standard that states a motorcycle oil must have certain standards to differentiate it from car oil?

1. The oil a dealer has in the drum is (supposedly) the same as is available in 1 or 4 litre bottles, dependant of course on which oils he chooses to stock.
2. The weight of the oil is described on the packaging, eg 10W40, 20W50 etc.
3.No idea!

[Slaninar]

1. When you get your bike serviced they take oil out of a big drum. I assume that this is nothing special, just the minimum spec oil without the car additives.

2. When people say a motorbike engine creates more shear etc and therefore needs a thicker oil, how do you know that the motorbike oil that is sold is any 'thicker' (or fuller, etc) than car oil, except that it is described as motorcycle oil? Is the oil in (1) suitable for motorcycles?

Not necesserily thicker oil. Just more durable - not loosing viscousity as quickly.

3. What's to stop someone arranging a supply of ASDA car oil (without the agents) then bottling it up with a picture of a motorcycle on it? Would make a tidy profit! Is there a trading standard that states a motorcycle oil must have certain standards to differentiate it from car oil?

There is a JASO, Japanese standard, made just for that reason - to make sure oil is good for motorcycle engine AND clutch. Japanese big four made that standard to protect themselves - something along the line of: if you pour JASO approved oil and engine/clutch still make problems, then you can blame the producer.


There are good and bad car, as well as motorcycle oils.  The thing gets more complicated when you consider false packages (very common where I live - people copy the original package and sell cheap oil).


Motorcycle will run on any API SG oil (without the "fuel economy"  additives that ruin the clutch). But the engine run on good, full synth oil will work better and last longer with the same use.


The most important thing is to change oil regularly and to warm the engine up before riding hard.

[Doddsie]

OK, we`re getting there, so what oil do people recommend??

[nick crisp]

OK, own preference only - Silkolene Comp 4, (semi-synthetic 10w40, motorcycle specific, meets API SG, SH ,SJ AND JASO MA , MA2 specs)

[wezdavo]

I use Motul 5100 semi syn 10w 40...

[Slaninar]

Both mentioned Silkolene Comp 4 and Motul 5100 are VERY good semi-synthetic oils. Probably the best money-value solution for Fazers.


I use fully synth oils: at the moment Motul 7100 10w40, since I got it at a discount price.

[Doddsie]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271003275374?s...1423.l2648




good choice??

[nick crisp]

Yes, meets all necessary specs, and will look after your engine just fine.

[Jacko]

Here's a bit of a bargain,

http://www.wilko.com/car-maintenance/wil...vt/0198942

Or if your feeling flush and got another £1.50 treat yourself to some semi skimmed.

http://www.wilko.com/car-maintenance/wil...vt/0257972

[Slaninar]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271003275374?s...1423.l2648




good choice??

Very good. 

[Doddsie]

OK, sorted, cheers everyone!!!

[Simon.Pieman]

A lot of people seem to distrust supermarket own brand stuff, but if its 10w40 semi synthetic bike oil, is it any different to the branded stuff???

Probably yes, but almost certainly not different enough to worry about.
Can any of the people on here relate a story where an engine broke because they used cheap oil rather than expensive oil? I doubt it and I'd bet that most bikers don't know what happens inside an engine when an oil breaks down and stops doing it's job.
If everyone on the forum just used cheapo mineral based Castrol GTX (£16 for 4 litres) for the rest of their lives I bet we'd never hear of an oil related breakdown.

[Slaninar]

Can any of the people on here relate a story where an engine broke because they used cheap oil rather than expensive oil?

That is true. Breakdowns occur when there is not (enough) oil in the engine.

However, better oils will make engine use less fuel, have slightly more HP, last a bit longer.