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Exhaust Studs
#41
great progress deadeye..........do you know when the machine shop can get the work done,would be an epic tale if you can make the run on sunday.......good on yer matey  Big Grin
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#42
Unfortunately I don't think it will be until early-mid next week Sad They are closed over the weekend and I didn't hear from them yesterday so...

But yeah, progress went pretty well in the end all things considered - first time I've undertaken quite such a large job on the bike. But it was so nice to work on compared to the 25 year old cars I've worked on where every single damn bolt is stuck fast.
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#43
always next month deadeye.......not sure of the turnout on first run but bound to be better on the second  Wink ....good luck getting it all back together and as always if you get stuck post on here and we will see if we can help you  Big Grin
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#44
(02-02-13, 12:48 PM)Dead Eye link Wrote: But it was so nice to work on compared to the 25 year old cars I've worked on where every single damn bolt is stuck fast.
......errrrr...the reason you have the engine out is that the bolts on yer motorcycle are damn stuck fast!  :oops
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#45
Yes, BUT that was only 8 studs... on my cars it was every single one you ever tried to undo Tongue

Every other bolt on the bike came out with no fuss when I was removing the engine, it made the job that much easier
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#46
hi deadeye.......bit early i know,any news from the machine shop  Smile
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#47
In fact yes! Big Grin

I was actually on my way to the shop to collect the engine when you posted your message. So its back with me now, sat with the bike under the cover. Need to get another free day to do some clean-up and re-assembly. I figure this may not be until the weekend however. In any case, I'll update as things progress Smile
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#48
wow that  was quick  Big Grin ......you now have 27 days until the march meet......clocks ticking  Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#49
well done. what sort of impact driver did you use to get them out?
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#50
I bought a 1/2" drive impact driver from Halfords (I couldn't wait Tongue) and an impact stud remover set from Amazon here; http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001D...00_s00_i00

Most of the larger 1/2" drive extractors range from 6mm up and since the studs are 6mm I wasn't confident that it could get a significant grip. This is why I bought the set which included the 2mm-8mm extractor which worked pretty well. On one of them I almost couldn't get the extractor to let go of the stud once I'd removed it  :lol

After several wacks from a hammer, they all (bar one) began to shift and allowed me to use a socket wrench to remove them without sheering them off any further.

For those who may be interested, the machine shop (Star Engineers in Broomfield) were very helpful and it ended up costing me £40. Since this was for two studs (drilled out, re-tapped and heli-coiled) I didn't think the price was too bad Smile
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#51
nice one liam. glad ur on the road to recovery. i may pop round the weekend and see ow ur gettin on. :thumbup
Just flapping about on this stagnant little pond on the outer rim of the internet.....yup....  :-))
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#52
You are more than welcome to help be break my back trying to lift the engine back in to the frame  :lol

To be honest, getting the engine re-seated is going to be the hardest part I think. Once its in, everything just bolts back together Smile
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#53
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....i like the look of that impact stud extractor  Big Grin  not seen one of them before,thanks for sharing,helicoils are easy to fit and there`s plenty on the bay,have used several in my older bikes,there like a tightly wound spring that winds into an oversize hole which enables the orignal size bolt to be used....very handy  Wink  , good luck with the re-fit  Smile   
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#54
Yeah, they came up in a few of my searches and worked a lot better than the other types I've seen (fixed size which wind against the stud). I have both types in my possession now and the latter ended up nearly sheering one of the studs. The impact ones were so much better and definitely recommended.
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#55
£40 sounds fair to me for 2 studs removed & holes repaired, nice.  Smile

I have almost perfected the art of balancing my FZ engine on a trolley jack with a piece of wood between the 2 as a cushion. With one hand on the engine I just slowly jack it up with the other hand until 1 or 2 mounting holes line up then whack the bolts in sharpish. Probably better with extra pair of hands but you sound impatient.. .  just like me! lol
Honestly I would love to give you a hand but checked you out on the map & you're too far from me.  Sad
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#56
Yeah, I thought £40 was pretty fair for 2 studs and it was done pretty fast. Dropped it off late Friday afternoon and picked it up early Monday afternoon and they aren't open over the weekends Tongue

I think I'll manage once I get the engine semi in to the frame. After that its a cake walk Smile Thanks for the offer of help as well ^^
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#57
good offer from EXUPNUT ........top man.........................just dont let him near you GLOVES OR KEYS  :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#58
:groan
Just flapping about on this stagnant little pond on the outer rim of the internet.....yup....  :-))
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#59
Well after back breaking day or work and help from Expunut, we managed to get the bike re-assembled and fired-up Smile I've finally got nearly everything done to it at last

A quick question though - the new clutch cable is way too tight and I've slackened it as much as possible at the bar end. I've heard people talk about adjusting it behind the sprocket cover - how?
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#60
Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover and you will see a 10mm lnut and a slotted bolt end for a screwdriver.
Loosen the nut, it will give a weird sound when it gives and then use a screwdriver to adjust it. You will need to turn it anticlockwise to slacken it.
When you have about 10mm freeplay at the lever tighten it up again and take up the final slack with the adjuster at the lever.
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