Woking - self 24000mile service - wanna help me?

[darren_uk]

Spark Plug check gap and condition




The plugs should be changed every 12000 miles.  They were last replaced immediately before I bought it.  They were replaced feb12 at approx 20000. (was only idling on 3 cylinders, therefore Honda Chiswick re-synced carbs, did compression test, and replaced spark plugs)




Again with my two teens (so took some time):




Removed spark plugs - all good colour so engine appears healthy.




Quick trip to Halfords (again):  bought spark plug gauge.  They're the wire type rather than the feeler type (flat bits of metal)




Here's the thing:  Checking the wires with the £20 digital verniers I bought from Halfords, and the wires are *not* what they're stamped with...




Anyway, using the reading from the digital verniers (I'm relying on this rather than the wires) I established the gap across all four was around 0.75-0.77 - this was inside the tolerance of 0.7mm-0.8mm






Once thing I wasn't happy about and wish I would have thought about:  compressed air to blow away the top of the spark plugs.  I could feel the grit as I put the spark plugs back.  Sadly this means that there's every chance that a bit of power can be lost through whatever gap this creates.






Starting it up, it sounds it has no issues - tomorrow is my 22 mile (one way) commute to work so I'll see what it's like.






Darren

[darren_uk]

well bugger me. or, preferably, don't! But here is the 11th commandment - thou shalt not listen to random bloke on t'internet... I'll get me coat...

hehe   I do like your avatar - damn I wanna meet that girl !!!

[red98]

[quote author=richfzs link=topic=4970.msg43646#msg43646 date=1350825440]
well bugger me. or, preferably, don't! But here is the 11th commandment - thou shalt not listen to random bloke on t'internet... I'll get me coat...

hehe   I do like your avatar - damn I wanna meet that girl !!!
[/quote]




iam not the only one then    thats the only reason iam on here,watch it for hours 

[Dead Eye]

It is sort of hypnotic isn't it... I think it's one of those man tests - if you don't stare, I've got bad news for you

[Slaninar]

Most local bikers I know, as well as a few mechanics would do it differently. Here's what advice I was given. This came from a mate mechanic that doesn't charge me for labour, lets me borrow tools, mess workshop etc - I trust the guy means well. Here goes:


replace fuel filter
Don't touch until you have problems.

replace air filter
replace spark plugs
This is no problem, 30 minute work if I didn't have the bloody KN (but KN needs less often maintenance,  than the OE need change, so it comes out in the almost the same amount of time/hassle).

check valve clearence
I was told NOT to touch this until I hear it rattle. Waste of time and money?!?

lubricate swingarm with lithium soap based grease
lubricate steering bearings with lithium soap based grease
lubricate rear suspension relay and connecting arm pivot points with lithium soap based grease
OK, there is  A LOT less rain in Serbia than in England, most people here ride in sunny days only (I'm one of those), but I was told NOT to touch any of these. Hardly anyone I know has done such things. I was told once I open it, it would be wise to change all the barings etc, but not to touch it until it starts not working properly.

check carbs for balance
My bike is say 90% well tuned, but starting to run a bit more rough, getting some buzz between 5500 rpm to 6000. But I was also told not to bother with this until it gets really nasty. "Better spend money with your girl, than pay me to sort it out".

replace engine oil and filter
Yes, every 6000 kilometres.

replace coolant
The red coolant lasts for some 100,000 kilometres, or five years minimum. So it says on the lid.  I put that in (flushed the system first well) and guess I'm good now for some time.


lubricate all moving parts cables
I do this every autumn (don't ride Fazer in the cold and wet days).


And it also says to replace the internal components of the master cylinder and calipers and replace brake fluid every 2 years!!
And to replace the brake hoses every 4 years!!
This sounds like a reasonable precaution. However, I was also advised against doing this. NOBODY does it round these parts, on any bike. People wait until they get problems (spongy feel that can't be sorted), or worse.  Except for brake fluid change (although some old biker I know don't do it almost ever).


Obviously not a very preemptive maintanance philosophy round here. I'm still between minds, how much of those stuff I can get away without changing. I mean, it is a 10 year old bike. I intend to keep it, but those things cost time and money.

[darren_uk]

check valve clearenceI was told NOT to touch this until I hear it rattle. Waste of time and money?!?

Checked my Valve Clearances yesterday.




Fiddly to get the valve cover out - with the help of my son, if you lift both sides right to the top so it's against the frame, it does come out.  But it was fiddly.




valve clearances were all in tolerance.  It didn't help that my Halford feeler guages didn't allow me to get to exact numbers between 0.11-0.20 (inlet valves) or 0.21-0.30 (exhaust valves) but I had enough combinations to discover things like "0.20 fits but 0.25 does not" for example.  So although I couldn't tell the exact gap, I knew they were all within tolerance.




Putting the stuff back together was a doddle, and it started




The gasket was in good condition, and I'll keep an eye for any leaks just in case it's not a good seal when I refitted it.




I didn't use a torque wrench on doing it back up:  however, I did "hand tight plus 1/8 turn" - I don't have a lot of leverage on my allen keys so I was confident I couldn't strip the threads.  And if course I'll double check every few rides to make sure they're still tight.

[Slaninar]

That measurement is the way it's done. For torque: I use two fingers. My ingex finger and thumb. That way I get it tight, but never too tight. Hold near the bolt for worse leverage and use only two fingers. Works for me with my strenth. But I'm known for stripping threads.

[Slaninar]

Had the cam chain changed and carbs cleaned and balanced by a mechanic mate. I was first amazed by the quick and relaxed way he put it all apart (it takes some taking things off to get to the carbs and cam chain on the Fazer). I was thinking: "How will he put it back together? Awesome!" Well, he didin't!   I had to help him put everything back in place. If there's one good thing about it - I got a lot more confidence. Mechanics aren't magicians. Just a bit more experienced, that's  all. Same problems, complications, no hats out of their sleaves.

Bike works nice now, pulls better from low revs and no sound of the cam chain. Nice. Will clean brakes, calipers and wait for the spring!