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Rebuild
#1
Good morning all,


I am currently working on a 2002 FZS 600 that has been sat for over two years. This is the story so far.




Upon initial inspection the bike appeared to be weather worn but not terribly. I figured at the following:


New battery
New plugs
Oil
Coolant
Filter
Carb clean (ultrasonic)
new chain and sprockets
new brake lines and fluid


The first thing to go was the brakes. The lines were drained into an old water bottle, and the calipers removed. The front two seemed in rather good condition, with plenty of life left in the pads. The rear caliper was a different story. It was caked in corrosion, muck, grease, grime, you name it. This was sent the same day to PowerHouse Automotive for a complete clean and rebuild. Having rebuilt a caliper before this was not something I fancied taking on again!
The lines were removed completely, and while they seemed serviceable, I decided to completely replace them. £85 later I had ordered a full set of braided lines, due later this week.


The next thing to come out was the carbs. My intent was to take them to get ultrasonically cleaned. An hour of fiddling later and I had them off. Out of curiosity I removed one of the float bowls, keen to see what two year old fuel looked like! However to my surprise they were clean as a whistle, I can only assume they were drained before the bike was stored. So, half an hour later, they were back in the bike.
The plugs had a LOT of rust around the exposed metal part, and the ignition coils had a lot of external grime on them. However internally on the coils and the ceramics on the plugs were clean, as were the threads and spark gaps. However to be on the safe side a new set was ordered. The grime came off the coils easily, and the new coils were inserted with some copper slip to stop them seizing. Just before this a few ml of fresh oil was dripped into the cylinders to pre lube them.


The rear wheel was next. The chain adjusters looked corroded and like they needed replacing. The axle nut looked rusted solid as well. However whoever owned this bike in the past had looked after it well before it was stored, and after the initial struggle the copper slip on the thread allowed the bolt to come off. The axle was well greased and came out fairly easily. The bearings looked in good condition so were left. The chain adjusters had a lot of surface corrosion, but a soak in fairly liquid and boiling water cleaned a surprising amount off. The rest came off with a wire brush. These will be greased before going back in to prevent further corrosion.


The oil and coolant was drained, both looked pretty fresh, but to be on the safe side new of both was ordered. Is it worth running some cheap stuff for a few hundred miles before putting the decent (£35) oil in?


The chain and sprocket was (eventually!) removed, a new chain is on order but the sprockets, while slightly rusty, were still in good condition. The rear sprocket was degreased and a wire brush again used to remove the surface rust. The sprocket has been painted with hammerite black paint, and looks good as new!


Hopefully I'll get some photos of the work in progress, I'd been so focused on the jobs to do I completely forgot to take any! Once the bike's back to standard I'll definitely be taking loads!


Any comments/questions are welcomed at this point, as well as advice for what else to check!


Tom

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#2
You mention changing the chain, but keeping the old sprockets; I'd be inclined to bin the lot regardless to be honest.
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#3
I agree with AideR.  Chain wears to the sprocket and the sprocket to the chain.  Replace as a set.  Front and rear.
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#4
If the plugs were very rusty just check the drainage holes aren't blocked as well  Wink
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#5
I was inclined to replace the chain and sprockets as a set, but the only reason to replace the chain was that it had rusted from being exposed to the elements. The sprockets were barely worn at all! The chain may have come back to life with some TLC but I decided to bin it in case the lubrication had gone internally.
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#6
sounds like you're doing some good work there green_biker Wink keep at it!
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#7
Anybody like to chime in about the oil? Is it worth filling it with some cheap and cheerful before changing for the decent stuff, or shall I just go straight for the good oil?
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#8
just bang some castrol gtx in it ?...it will be fine!! Wink ....ive been using it for years and never had any probs?...£13.99...off ebay!!...10w 40...i change mine every 3k...spotless inside engine!!
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#9
(20-09-12, 07:13 PM)CRH link Wrote: just bang some castrol gtx in it ?...it will be fine!! Wink ....ive been using it for years and never had any probs?...£13.99...off ebay!!...10w 40...i change mine every 3k...spotless inside engine!!


already bought the proper stuff Wink
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#10
(20-09-12, 07:17 PM)green_rider link Wrote: [quote author=CRH link=topic=4680.msg39873#msg39873 date=1348164820]
just bang some castrol gtx in it ?...it will be fine!! Wink ....ive been using it for years and never had any probs?...£13.99...off ebay!!...10w 40...i change mine every 3k...spotless inside engine!!


already bought the proper stuff Wink
[/quote]...........Why ask then?? :rolleyes ...........
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#11
because if the engine is going to create a load of gunk for the first few hundred miles I thought it might be worth putting in some rubbish stuff just to flush it out with.
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#12
(20-09-12, 07:38 PM)green_rider link Wrote: because if the engine is going to create a load of gunk for the first few hundred miles I thought it might be worth putting in some rubbish stuff just to flush it out with.
.....just get a cheap gall of wilkos 10w 40 then and run it for 500 miles then drop it!!...no point in wasting expensive stuff is it?...and remember??...dont put in fully synthetic!!!!!!!! Wink ....just semi!!
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#13
why not fully synth?
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#14
(20-09-12, 07:45 PM)green_rider link Wrote: why not fully synth?
....because it can cause your clutch to slip!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes
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#15
gonna kill the guy in the parts store! looked up the bike in the book and sold me fully synth at £35 odd quid!
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#16
(20-09-12, 08:14 PM)green_rider link Wrote: gonna kill the guy in the parts store! looked up the bike in the book and sold me fully synth at £35 odd quid!
....anyone on here will tell you, you only need semi synthetic, anything of ..sj rating or above will do?...no need for expensive oils for the fazer?...well?..not at £35 a gall anyway? Wink
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#17
will see if i can get it refunded and get some basic stuff
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#18
Don't get that Magnatec stuff either, i made that mistake a few years ago, the bike didn't like it at all, then i read that even Castrol themselves tell you not to use it in bikes.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#19
(20-09-12, 07:55 PM)CRH link Wrote: [quote author=green_rider link=topic=4680.msg39882#msg39882 date=1348166751]
why not fully synth?
....because it can cause your clutch to slip!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes
[/quote]
Clutch slip has nothing to do with the base stock. It can be mineral, semi-synthetic or the most expensive ester synthetic, but provided the viscosity is correct it won't cause clutch slip... it's the choice of additives that can. A high level of molybdenum in particular is likely to cause problems. Unfortunately it's very difficult to find out exactly what manufacturers have put in their oil, but if it says motorcycle oil on the container or has the JASO-MA certification you should be on safe ground.
I'm currently using HG synthetic in my Fazer (only bought it because it was cheaper than the Halfords semi-synthetic I used to use). The clutch doesn't slip. Ordinarily though, there's no point in using fully synthetic unless you want to risk a longer service interval (synthetics supposedly retain viscosity for longer).
At the other extreme, there are plenty on here who use car oil in their bikes, and provided you avoid those that make claims for ultra low friction, fuel economy or "intelligent molecules" you probably won't suffer clutch slip. But it's not something I'd risk, other than in an emergency, since the additive requirements for car and bike engines are not the same.
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#20
(21-09-12, 09:56 AM)Fazerider link Wrote: [quote author=CRH link=topic=4680.msg39883#msg39883 date=1348167310]
[quote author=green_rider link=topic=4680.msg39882#msg39882 date=1348166751]
why not fully synth?
....because it can cause your clutch to slip!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes
[/quote]
Clutch slip has nothing to do with the base stock. It can be mineral, semi-synthetic or the most expensive ester synthetic, but provided the viscosity is correct it won't cause clutch slip... it's the choice of additives that can. A high level of molybdenum in particular is likely to cause problems. Unfortunately it's very difficult to find out exactly what manufacturers have put in their oil, but if it says motorcycle oil on the container or has the JASO-MA certification you should be on safe ground.
I'm currently using HG synthetic in my Fazer (only bought it because it was cheaper than the Halfords semi-synthetic I used to use). The clutch doesn't slip. Ordinarily though, there's no point in using fully synthetic unless you want to risk a longer service interval (synthetics supposedly retain viscosity for longer).
At the other extreme, there are plenty on here who use car oil in their bikes, and provided you avoid those that make claims for ultra low friction, fuel economy or "intelligent molecules" you probably won't suffer clutch slip. But it's not something I'd risk, other than in an emergency, since the additive requirements for car and bike engines are not the same.
[/quote]


That's good to know. It's "Shell Advance Motorcycle Engine Oil" so I'm assuming has the qualities you describe.
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