|
cam chain tool
|
03-09-12, 10:34 AM
(02-09-12, 10:58 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: yeah nice one Yep, they're the offending items 
03-09-12, 10:20 PM
(03-09-12, 10:34 AM)Bias link Wrote: [quote author=His Dudeness link=topic=4333.msg37306#msg37306 date=1346623105] Yep, they're the offending items [/quote] cool thanks 
24-09-12, 05:55 PM
Could someone tell me the complete procedure to change the chain. From removing the tank to putting it back on. Do I need to remove the engine from the frame. What about the tensioners - can I change these as well, without taking out the engine and without removing the head.
My engine ratles like a box of nails. I would like to change both chain and tensioner but preferably without removing the engine. Enlighten me!!! Mads 
Yes, I always remove the engine and split the casings to fit an endless chain, I too have had riveted links let go on me in the past. I can do it all in one day, but I guess thats the advantage of being a bike mechanic with a kitted out workshop.
Owner of Motorcycle Republic, Specialist in unfucking things that others have fucked up.
28-09-12, 12:39 AM
Buy the Haynes Manual first and then download the Yamaha service manual from the down loads section. Having both is better than just one and the Haynes pictures are helpful to beginners.
These are the items requiring removal: There is no need to remove the engine Remove the Tank Remove the side panels on air box Remove the side covers Remove the coils and fuel pump Remove the carbs Remove the cam cover end caps Remove the bolt holding the Coolant filler/thermostat Remove the Alternator Cover and tie it up Remove the cam chain tensioner (remove the bolt and spring at the end first to release the pressure on the tensioner Remove the cam cover from the left side and move the coolant filler/thermostat to facilitate removal of the cover. Remove the spark plugs and cover the spark plug holes just to stop anything from fallin in. Break the chain and be careful no to drop anything down the chain tunnel Remove the cams With the cams removed you can turn the crank as all valves are closed and no compression as plugs are removed. Under no circumstance turn the crank until the plugs and cams are removed. Make sure all dowels are out of the inlet side of the head as they will impede the refitting of the inlet camshaft Lining them up on refitting is fiddly but with a new chain all timing marks should line correctly The split link is not as we know it but what is known as a soft link which can be peened over like the like on the drive chain. However I would recommend that the peening over of the soft link is not done by a novice. I did not find the motion pro tool or type tool very effective and reverted to the heavy and light hammer method
28-09-12, 12:44 PM
Hey thanks a lot for the explanation. Is it possible to change the cam chain guides from the top or do I need to remove engine from frame and remove the head to change those?
Cheers! Mads
28-09-12, 12:59 PM
The front chain guide can be taken out with a bit of wriggling if you remove the cams but the actual rear tensioner guide is at least a top end off/engine out/split job because of where its bolted at the bottom of the tensioner blade .... stunning design ..
|
|
« Next Oldest | Next Newest »
|
